Jump to content

7750 was working, I touched it, now it isn't....


Recommended Posts

Pretty frustrated with this, I have a clone 7750. Everything was running well, however the chrono hand didn't completely reset to 0, literally a fraction off so I thought id reseat it so it was in the centre

I was given some advice by another member here to hold down the reset button whilst gently pressing the hand back on, this would mean the cams were in the correct place and the chronograph hand should then reset to 0 after running.Great shouldn't take me more than 30 minutes.

I removed the movement, popped the hand off and put it back on following the advice given. No drama.

Now when trying to run the chrono the middle seconds hand just springs forward and stops dead. When I reset it, it goes back to its original position.

What have I done wrong? 

At first I thought I hadn't pushed down hard enough and the hand was slipping so it was just springing forward, but it resets so has a good hold of the pinion.

Have I pushed too hard? I was super gentle with it so don't think that's the case. 

I'm using a movement holder with the buttons at the side, and also the screws that sit in the base (what are they for?). Could I have knocked something out of place on balance side?

These aren't  cheap movements and do run well, so it's obviously me......

 

Edited by AP1875
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unfortunately I can't assist with the chrono problem but those bits in the bottom of the holder are supports for when pressing hands, cannon pinion etc on, they can be adjusted.

Having a closer look at your pics, the spring certainly doesn't look right, i'd get it under a loupe and look for somewhere it would seat.

Edited by m1ks
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

the screws support the pinions when pressing hands on. the hand being off could have just been you not pressing on perfectly. as far as clone 7750 goes they really arent top notch when compared to the eta, the chinese have no quality control and the chrono arms always have more play in them compared to the eta because of the way they are riveted together, make sure there is no play in the rivets.

 

but the spring is 100% your issue it may be popping out when hit the start button look at the pic i attached the spring should but up against the pinion arm. that spring pushes the arm and allows the pinion to make contact with the center wheel which makes the chrono run when you hit the start button, then pull back when stopping chrono.

 

also i have to ask is the rolex real? if so go spend $400 and get an official valjoux 7750. you will thank me later

 

 

555a73daef67e872cd0f2b9981a02cef.jpg

Edited by saswatch88
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, saswatch88 said:

also i have to ask is the rolex real? if so go spend $400 and get an official valjoux 7750. you will thank me later

Even on a genuine Rolex fitting a non-Rolex movement would be very wrong in terms of maintaining correctness, and hence, resale value.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your advice and pointing me in the right direction, I’ll watch one of Marks 7750 videos to help install the spring.

The 7750 movements of today are a lot better than they were 10 years ago. I have some that have been reliable for 3-5 years and still going well. The only real issue is the sec @ 12 movements with the extra gears.

Definitely not a real Rolex, I just buy the clones to practice removing the hands etc trying not to damage/mark the parts. A 7750 will not fit into a Daytona case. This one has frozen sub dials. I have a clone 4130 which is really very impressive.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, jdm said:

Even on a genuine Rolex fitting a non-Rolex movement would be very wrong in terms of maintaining correctness, and hence, resale value.

agreed. didnt think the rolex was real but if it was and he didnt have the rolex movement and the ETA is always better than a clone.

AP yes mark does have a video on the 7750, and there are a ton of other videos as well. update when you fix that spring

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
    • OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
×
×
  • Create New...