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Help identifying vintage Movement


H8CAK

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You will see from s movement I worked on a few weeks ago that it has the same shield logo with a T in it. This movement was Dimier Frères and was very similar to an AS 676. I’m not sure if this will help you but my watch was from the same era (1920s).


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It's an AS movement. TR is Ebauches Trust the forerunner of Ebauches SA, ETA, and in simplified terms was an umbrella organisation for most Ebauches makers in the old days. AS was a founder member. There's loads about Ebauches SA if you google it, all gets a bit complicated.

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19 minutes ago, eezy said:

It's an AS movement. TR is Ebauches Trust the forerunner of Ebauches SA, ETA, and in simplified terms was an umbrella organisation for most Ebauches makers in the old days. AS was a founder member. There's loads about Ebauches SA if you google it, all gets a bit complicated.

complicated like the movements when it comes to sourcing parts

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It's a AS thats for sure. I saw one that asked about a similar one  yesterday.  How does it look on the other side.

So as Rogart63 said, do you have a photo of the other side, and another preferably with the escapement removed?

 

 

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If HS is all you need,  hairsprings of similair or close physical specification and structural properties can be fitted on. A sample of the HS, a piece left on collet or stud, is the guideline to see what spring is highly likely to vibrate the BW to the right beat, through shortening the HS.

If you got spare HS,  selecting one by comparison is within reach. 

Repairman usually perfer to select one with collet already attached and that fit the collet seat on the BW. 

This may sound nonsense to you, thats how it was before production advanced and cheap ready to instal complete balances were made available.

 

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5 hours ago, AdamC said:

So as Rogart63 said, do you have a photo of the other side, and another preferably with the escapement removed?

 

 

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Ill get a picture when i get home tonight if i haven't got one on my phone. Thank you for the reply.

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It looks like an AS 52 or AS202 but the whole balance plate seems to been replaced with a later part.

Wow, I agree that the top plate bridges look like they’ve been re-fabricated. I can see the similarity of the AS 52/202 calibers. Perhaps as Nucejoe suggested, it might be worth seeing if you can find a similar hairspring that will fit the balance wheel as it’s going to be almost impossible to get an exact replacement.


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    • Hello everybody, sorry for the late reply. Thank you all so much for your help and your tips. I got lucky and found a replacement wheel bridge for cheap which actually ended up being in decent condition. I decided not to do anything about the mainspring barrel pivot since I didn't have the right tools and the barrel didn't have much endshake anyhow. I am happy to report that the watch now runs great, I have regulated it to about +-10/s day which is fine by my standards. The timegrapher result looks decent as well, although beat error is around 0.6ms which could be better I suppose. Amplitude reaches over 230 quite consistently which I'm happy with also. My lighter fluid has also been replaced by balance spring cleaning solution and now the springs don't stick to themselves anymore - who would have thought. I'm super happy with this watch, it might not be worth a whole lot but it's awesome that I could restore it and it makes me wear it with pride. To me it's a genuinely good lucking watch, it'll be my daily driver for a while. Thanks again to everybody for their input! I couldn't have done the repair without your help.   Here are some images for those interested, the bracelet isn't original but I don't really mind:    
    • Balance-hairspring system is oscillator with big Q-factor. When all in the movement is OK, the rate (frequency) is verry close to the own resonant frequency of the balance-hairspring. But in some cases, the movement (with foult) will force the resonator to work on pritty different frequency, sometimes faster, and sometimes slower. When this happens, the amplitude is always weak. So, the first thing to ask is what is the amplitude. If it is more than 180 and the hairspring doesn't touch itself and anything else, then for sure it is 'short'. If the amplitude is weak, then the first thing to do is to understand why and rectify the problem. At this time no point to check timekeeping. But, if one doubts that the hairspring is not correct, then He needs to calcullate the rate of the movement, then to 'vibrate' the balance-hairspring out of the movement and to measure the free oscillations frequency (period) with timer in order to ensure that they comply with the rate. If we have pictures, then it will be easier to tell something about that wheel.
    • So much work has gone into this! Thanks again @Jon. I will go back and check my adjustments from last weekend. A few questions for you, if you don't mind. In the reset position, I can understand the problem if the gap between the hammer and the minute counter heart is too big (slide 77) but what is bad about both hammers being in contact with the cams (slide 76)? I read somewhere that Landeron recommended grease on the runner cam, but the minute counter heart should be dry. Is that so, and why? How many tads in a ligne?
    • Could you glue two pieces together for rigidity and separate after forming? 
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