Jump to content

Pocket Watch Conversion Question


Recommended Posts

I'd like to try my hand at converting a vintage pocket into a wristwatch.

For anyone who knows, what size pocket watch should I aim for and what's the best source for an appropriate sized case? Is a 'Hunter' best for this? What's the best solution for a winding stem and if I have to go with a case that's not drilled for the stem, what's the best solution?

In other words, what best practice for this mod?? Any help would be appreciated.

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi there...same project as my...i used full hunter pocket watch whit eta 6498 movement. I guess that is the most easy movemnt to fit into wrist case. You have a lot of watch cases for conversions on ebay mostly from China. There is also some cases from Ukraine but they are not cases for some particular model...you have to udjust them little bit..
I recommend you to try whit eta or unitas 6498 or 6497 movement. The case you will pick is the case that will fit your dial.... you have 35-41mm dials. You have to mesure yours and pick case on that ground.full hunter pocket watch have the winding steam on 9 and not on 12 and that will make you a lot easy to convert.


Послато са SM-J600FN уз помоћ Тапатока

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have considered an old pocket watch conversion project but one thing stops me - nickel poisoning!

Most old pocket watches are nickel or if you pay more, silver or maybe gold. I doubt if you would want to potentially destroy a gold watch though.

If I wear a nickel watch, within the hour I have a severe rash all the way up my arm and within a couple of days it starts to bleed. Takes about a month to clear up.

I think I am an extreme case though.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are scads of old movements out there.back in the day they melted the cases down..you could put them in a stainless steel case.for wear on your wrist.as stated by milosbn

Edited by yankeedog
Content
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm sure you will get help on here soon.  Kkramme we like new members to make an introduction before posting. A little about your self such as where you life and what got you interested in Horology  
    • I'd be grateful for recommendations of good sources of advice on getting clocks with balance spring - as opposed to pendulum - escapements 'in beat'.....
    • Well I am in a bit of a quandary. I can't find the correct colour for the dial. I even wrote to Hettich a while back hoping they would give me the colour code for the dial. The reply that I received was "We don't make those anymore." I am thinking now to silver the dial and use a water transfer decal to put minute markers and the HETTICH logo (which is the very font that this forum uses) and the Made in Germany down the bottom. Not sure of the success rate of the water transfer method, but I have no other solution for the markers and logo. Handpainting is just not an option. In trying to get the top piece of the clock polished, it has progressively lost its sharp edges. My stupid hamfisted effort. I am thinking of purchasing a replacement piece of brass and drilling new holes in it for the corner posts. Why I attempted to repolish using wet & dry and not simply using a paint remover to remove the old lacquer from the brass, I don't know. You whistle and I'll point at the idiot. I also need to purchase some sheet spring steel as the two small ratchet springs that arrest the wheel that supports the weight after it is lifted by the electromagnet are worn. The two from the donor clock that I purchased are worse. I am hoping that I will be able to manufacture new springs without having to fiddle about with tempering etc to the steel. I have some ideas on that front. How many things until the clock is no longer the original? Like an axe. Heard a woodchopper on tv once saying that he had replaced the head on his axe twice and the handle three times, but it was the same axe that he began woodchopping with. 😉 I must post more often or read back through what I have previously written. Keep repeating myself. Sigh.
    • I use the exact OD and it fits in with a little force and a pleasing 'click' so it's snug and wont rotate within the holder, but that depends on how you have set up and calibrated your printer so you may need to play with the settings/dimensions a little to allow for any discrepancies in your printer calibration. PS I just finished (2 days ago) a new revision which automatically prints the movement OD on the bottom of the holder, I'll see if I can upload it here Here is rev 4 remember to change the .pdf to .FCStd so it will open in FreeCAD - also you may need to install the LiberationSansBold font and tell FreeCAD where it lives on your PC, or change the font to something you already have on your system. Para Movement Holder V4.pdf Examples below:
    • Only someone on this forum would ever understand the Oooooo I just did
×
×
  • Create New...