Jump to content

Pocket Watch Conversion Question


Recommended Posts

I'd like to try my hand at converting a vintage pocket into a wristwatch.

For anyone who knows, what size pocket watch should I aim for and what's the best source for an appropriate sized case? Is a 'Hunter' best for this? What's the best solution for a winding stem and if I have to go with a case that's not drilled for the stem, what's the best solution?

In other words, what best practice for this mod?? Any help would be appreciated.

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi there...same project as my...i used full hunter pocket watch whit eta 6498 movement. I guess that is the most easy movemnt to fit into wrist case. You have a lot of watch cases for conversions on ebay mostly from China. There is also some cases from Ukraine but they are not cases for some particular model...you have to udjust them little bit..
I recommend you to try whit eta or unitas 6498 or 6497 movement. The case you will pick is the case that will fit your dial.... you have 35-41mm dials. You have to mesure yours and pick case on that ground.full hunter pocket watch have the winding steam on 9 and not on 12 and that will make you a lot easy to convert.


Послато са SM-J600FN уз помоћ Тапатока

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have considered an old pocket watch conversion project but one thing stops me - nickel poisoning!

Most old pocket watches are nickel or if you pay more, silver or maybe gold. I doubt if you would want to potentially destroy a gold watch though.

If I wear a nickel watch, within the hour I have a severe rash all the way up my arm and within a couple of days it starts to bleed. Takes about a month to clear up.

I think I am an extreme case though.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are scads of old movements out there.back in the day they melted the cases down..you could put them in a stainless steel case.for wear on your wrist.as stated by milosbn

Edited by yankeedog
Content
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes, "Sold out" is difficult to understand. There doesn't seem to be a lot going on. It's been nine months since any new video was published on the Watch Repair Channel. The Level 4 course on watchfix.com has been in progress for what feels like forever (several years!?). Maybe Mark's enterprises aren't doing well or perhaps already so profitable there's nothing much to motivate him for more material. Or, perhaps these days he's more into crochet. The real reason is probably something entirely different but it would be nice/interesting to know. I don't mean to sound gloomy or pessimistic, but I wouldn't be surprised to be met by an HTTP 404. Every day feels like a gift. Speaking of watchfix.com I've been postponing the "Level 5: Servicing Chronograph Watches" course for a very, very long time. Anyway, I just enrolled on it so it's going to be very interesting to see the videos. I must say, IMO there's nothing really that can compete with Mark's courses when it comes to presentation and video quality. It's simply world-class and makes me associate with some really expensive BBC productions.
    • Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different. And getting the hardened bar past its point of plastic deformation takes a lot more effort.
    • @JohnR725 now that you've mentioned it. This is actually the second aftermarket spring (same place and brand) I ordered as the first one broke. The eye on which the arbor pulls on, broke off on the first spring after the first wind, and also it was a bit to large for the arbor. Looked like on one the second picture in the 2nd group. The second one was exactly the same, I had to bend it a bit, to give it a more prominent curve to the end of the spring so that the arbor catches the eye.  Also I believe both were 5-10mm shorter. Not that I writing that, I feel a bit dumb, as the spring might actually been the problem all along, although its advertised as a substitute to the original...     
    • The CS70 is the only one they show as annealed.  A further search on ebay, I found CS75 and CS100 annealed carbon steel strips  e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314072784422
    • Aloha and thanks for catching all these small but important details, John.  I'm going to give it a shot. The good news is I have a parts movement here with a perfect complete balance.  I will place them side by side for visual reference when doing what you outlined.  It's been a while were I've had a hobby in which I joined a forum.  I forgot just how helpful everyone can be. Mahalo. Frank.
×
×
  • Create New...