Movado Subsea Chronograph

[RyMoeller]

Here's a couple of Movado Subsea Chronographs from the 1950's that are just about twins.  The one on the right (#1) has had a bit of a hard life compared to the one on the left.  Gone are the Kris hands from the minute and hour registers.  The original crown is missing too and it appears that the pendant tube was modified to make the new crown fit (see bottom pic).  It's a terrible shame as this is a Taubert/Borgel case and of high quality craftsmanship.  The outer end of the pendant tube has been lost (perhaps filed off) and the cork gasket is long gone.

The Subsea on the right (#2) is in better shape with the original Kris hands, crown, and a movement that appears to have been serviced recently. The lead caseback gasket is gone and replaced with a rubber one and the larger hands are clearly wrong- why have luminous paint on the dial if the hands have none?

The trick here will be to bring both watches back to Movado factory specifications.  I doubt I can locate the Kris hands but if anyone knows where I can find a proper Borgel style crown and is willing to share the info that would be greatly appreciated!  I picked up an old Mido Multifort which has a similar crown but it would be a shame to steal parts from it as it's otherwise complete.

I've dug through my vintage hand drawer and think I might have the proper hour and minute hands needed for #2.

I wonder if there are there any thoughts on how I could go about fixing the pendant tube on #1?  The backup plan will be to just leave it as it is- the watch is vintage and replacing the cork gaskets in the pusher tubes to a level that will ensure reliable water resistance is probably not possible (I don't have the tools and I don't believe replacement cork gaskets can be found). I do love to do restorations though... Any thoughts/suggestions are appreciated. 

Thanks!

 

[noirrac1j]

7 minutes ago, RyMoeller said:

Here's a couple of Movado Subsea Chronographs from the 1950's that are just about twins.  The one on the right (#1) has had a bit of a hard life compared to the one on the left.  Gone are the Kris hands from the minute and hour registers.  The original crown is missing too and it appears that the pendant tube was modified to make the new crown fit (see bottom pic).  It's a terrible shame as this is a Taubert/Borgel case and of high quality craftsmanship.  The outer end of the pendant tube has been lost (perhaps filed off) and the cork gasket is long gone.

The Subsea on the right (#2) is in better shape with the original Kris hands, crown, and a movement that appears to have been serviced recently. The lead caseback gasket is gone and replaced with a rubber one and the larger hands are clearly wrong- why have luminous paint on the dial if the hands have none?

The trick here will be to bring both watches back to Movado factory specifications.  I doubt I can locate the Kris hands but if anyone knows where I can find a proper Borgel style crown and is willing to share the info that would be greatly appreciated!  I picked up an old Mido Multifort which has a similar crown but it would be a shame to steal parts from it as it's otherwise complete.

I've dug through my vintage hand drawer and think I might have the proper hour and minute hands needed for #2.

I wonder if there are there any thoughts on how I could go about fixing the pendant tube on #1?  The backup plan will be to just leave it as it is- the watch is vintage and replacing the cork gaskets in the pusher tubes to a level that will ensure reliable water resistance is probably not possible (I don't have the tools and I don't believe replacement cork gaskets can be found). I do love to do restorations though... Any thoughts/suggestions are appreciated. 

Thanks!

 

 

 

I'm sorry I don't have any leads on your request Ry. Are these column chronos an in-house? The movements are beautiful.

J

[RyMoeller]

6 minutes ago, noirrac1j said:

I'm sorry I don't have any leads on your request Ry. Are these column chronos an in-house? The movements are beautiful.

J

Thanks- I'm sure one will show up in time.  ;o)

Yes, the movements are in-house column wheel chronographs; you might know I'm trying to work my way through all of the manual chronographs of the golden age!  They're quite nice though- they do look better in person but feel better than any other watch I've had thus far. Movado made some keepers back in the day.

[vinn3]

10 hours ago, RyMoeller said:

Here's a couple of Movado Subsea Chronographs from the 1950's that are just about twins.  The one on the right (#1) has had a bit of a hard life compared to the one on the left.  Gone are the Kris hands from the minute and hour registers.  The original crown is missing too and it appears that the pendant tube was modified to make the new crown fit (see bottom pic).  It's a terrible shame as this is a Taubert/Borgel case and of high quality craftsmanship.  The outer end of the pendant tube has been lost (perhaps filed off) and the cork gasket is long gone.

The Subsea on the right (#2) is in better shape with the original Kris hands, crown, and a movement that appears to have been serviced recently. The lead caseback gasket is gone and replaced with a rubber one and the larger hands are clearly wrong- why have luminous paint on the dial if the hands have none?

The trick here will be to bring both watches back to Movado factory specifications.  I doubt I can locate the Kris hands but if anyone knows where I can find a proper Borgel style crown and is willing to share the info that would be greatly appreciated!  I picked up an old Mido Multifort which has a similar crown but it would be a shame to steal parts from it as it's otherwise complete.

I've dug through my vintage hand drawer and think I might have the proper hour and minute hands needed for #2.

I wonder if there are there any thoughts on how I could go about fixing the pendant tube on #1?  The backup plan will be to just leave it as it is- the watch is vintage and replacing the cork gaskets in the pusher tubes to a level that will ensure reliable water resistance is probably not possible (I don't have the tools and I don't believe replacement cork gaskets can be found). I do love to do restorations though... Any thoughts/suggestions are appreciated. 

Thanks!

 

   i ave one of these movado's,  seems to me it has a lead case gasket.  vin

[noirrac1j]

10 hours ago, RyMoeller said:

Thanks- I'm sure one will show up in time.  ;o)

Yes, the movements are in-house column wheel chronographs; you might know I'm trying to work my way through all of the manual chronographs of the golden age!  They're quite nice though- they do look better in person but feel better than any other watch I've had thus far. Movado made some keepers back in the day.

You're working your way through ALL the chronographs?!? Man, I wish I had time to even do the top three. My experience thus far is limited to 7750 and one Landeron cal 2. I'm looking for a birthday year watch and was leaning towards valjoux 7733 or Omega's lemania-derived 861-1863. Thoughts? 

J

[RyMoeller]

3 hours ago, noirrac1j said:

You're working your way through ALL the chronographs?!? Man, I wish I had time to even do the top three. My experience thus far is limited to 7750 and one Landeron cal 2. I'm looking for a birthday year watch and was leaning towards valjoux 7733 or Omega's lemania-derived 861-1863. Thoughts? 

J

Yeah, I'm not really sure what even got me started on the path; I guess I just like seeing the different solutions each manufacturer had for the same problems.  It's a hobby though so time is on my side.

I have an affinity for Venus movements (which the 7730 is derived from) but the 861 is considered by some as the best manual wind chronograph out there. I'm not aware of any weaknesses in the movement.  Also, if you don't have one already, it's a good excuse to get an Omega Speedmaster.  Hamilton has some great 7730 chronographs too.

 

[noirrac1j]

21 minutes ago, RyMoeller said:

Also, if you don't have one already, it's a good excuse to get an Omega Speedmaster.  Hamilton has some great 7730 chronographs too.

 

I like the way you think! I'm looking for an Omega now, and I like the Speedmaster Broad Arrow reissue with the plexi and caliber 1861.

J