Jump to content

Please help me to identify this movement

BertlDerSchreckliche
 Share

Recommended Posts

BertlDerSchreckliche New Member

BertlDerSchreckliche

Posted
Posted

Please help me to identify this movement. It came out of women's wrist watch. The movement diameter is 20mm. I was looking for some kind of model number but can't spot any. And if there are some very experienced folks out there I have an additional question. The ratchet wheel screw was broken after it came out of the cleaner. If somebody could point me to where I could by spares, if that is even possible. 

Thanks for your help. Norbert

Untitled 4.jpg

Untitled 6.jpg

Untitled 7.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
wls1971 Distinguished Member

wls1971

Posted
Posted

We need to see under the dial and the keyless works I.E setting lever parts to be able to identify it with certainty there where so many movements of this period 1920-1930 that look identical looking at the bridges that it makes it almost impossible to say. Calibre numbers are sometimes under the balance or balance bridge, if not dial off and photo please.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rogart63 Distinguished Member

rogart63

Posted
Posted

Found a FHF that looks like it could be the same. Says 39 on the back . Don't know if that means it's a FHF 39 . Let me know i can send you the parts  i have. There is a whole bunch of similar movements . Maybe have one i copper color i i search . DSC09905.thumb.JPG.8fd41a0228592214af2454f4cd3695f2.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
saswatch88 WRT Addict

saswatch88

Posted
Posted (edited)

looks like an A. Schild. Need a pic of dial side. there will be a logo stamped somewhere. but thats half the battle. as far as finding caliber you first need to get the ligne size and general idea of date range, and number of jewels. then go on Dr. Ranfft's advanced search type in those specs and go through each pic of the results. some will look very similar but the keyless works is where you will tell the difference.

 

edit: its an 8.75 Ligne size movement

Edited by saswatch88
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
BertlDerSchreckliche New Member

BertlDerSchreckliche

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you very much for your input you are amazing. The FHF 39, thanks rogart63, indeed looks very close. I've added some pictures of the dail side and the stripped ?base-plate?. Don't mind the pencil , I'm only pointing to remind me on how this thing may go together again. I still can't spot any numbers. Thanks for the help saswatch88, however, I think I need some more handholding in order to figure all of that out ;-).

I've measured the broken screw as well as I could and it is a right hand screw, about 1,3mm long the threaded section is 0,85mm long the head diamter is 1,50mm flat without any bevel. It has about 5 turns over that 850µm and the diameter of the threaded section is about 550µm in diameter. I don't know if that helps any but I really would like to put it back together.

Thank you all very much for you inputs and let me know if you need some more information or would like to see some additional stuff about that watch. 

Cheers Norbert

Untitled 26.jpg

Untitled 29.jpg

Untitled 28.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rogart63 Distinguished Member

rogart63

Posted
Posted (edited)

DSC09910.thumb.JPG.b948878021b03b6c0cd502f1eba99932.JPGDSC09909.thumb.JPG.cbf59a358e5ce3b2ff82c8a1849cfd2f.JPG

 

99% sure it's the same . That is a FHF movement you have .Need it for parts send me a PM and we work something out .  Haven't looked in all my parts but if this is right i can have a go and search as i have seen that 39 somewhere else to. 

 

Edited by rogart63
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
BertlDerSchreckliche New Member

BertlDerSchreckliche

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you all for helping me. From what I could find FHF is highly likely and if 1146 is correct (as suggested by wls1971, thank you very much), the size range would fit very well as the movement is about 20mm in diameter. The movement from rogart63 indeed looks a lot like it, however, I don't know how the number 39 on in fits into the mix. 

For what it is worth I have it back together and the only thing missing is broken ratchet wheel screw. I've measured the broken screw as well as I could and it is a right hand screw, about 1,3mm long the threaded section is 0,85mm long the head diamter is 1,50mm flat without any bevel. It has about 5 turns over that 850µm and the diameter of the threaded section is about 550µm in diameter.

Can somebody tell me how to get a replacement? I really would really like to get it working again.

Thanks for all of your input,

Norbert

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • joelcarvajal
      Gamblin Gamsol for cleaning?

      By joelcarvajal · Posted

      Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • GuyMontag
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Zedster
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Zedster · Posted

      Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • nevenbekriev
      Main spring

      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • ManSkirtBrew
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
×
×
  • Create New...