Jump to content

Seiko HI-Beat certified chrono movment


Recommended Posts

I have just the case, dial, crown and stem, missing the rest. Hi Beat movement calib 5626-5020 originally came in it. My questions are.

1- Would other series of calib 5626 fit in it ?  I don,t want to break dial feets.

2- How much you think this would be appraised, with good movement and without?

3- How much should I put in it, movement and all.

4- Is this rare and collectable?

It looks better in person than in picture. 

I have got 20 or so seiko, but I am not a seiko man,  rather more like meat and potato man.:lol:

Regards

 

IMG-20190317-WA0001.jpg

IMG-20190317-WA0000.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

Correction calib 5626-5099. There sre so many.

Sure looks like a 5626-5090 from somewhere 1975-1976 can't see the serial number clearly..
I haven't seen many of these so it might be rare but in mint condition these should fetch around 200-300$ since it isn't the popular "King Seiko". 
Unfortunately I haven't fitted any movement in one of these cases...
Since I collect anything with a movement in it I would say ..yes it's collectible.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, HSL said:

Sure looks like a 5626-5090 from somewhere 1975-1976 can't see the serial number clearly..
I haven't seen many of these so it might be rare but in mint condition these should fetch around 200-300$ since it isn't the popular "King Seiko". 
Unfortunately I haven't fitted any movement in one of these cases...
Since I collect anything with a movement in it I would say ..yes it's collectible.

 

Not much worth is it, you meant 200 to 300 USD  complete as watch.

   I ,ll check the calib and serial No.  Thanks HSL 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, Davey57 said:

That’ll make a lovely watch. Good luck with it and finding the parts you need.

Post some pics if and when you get it done.

looks like I am going to need lots of good luck to find a chronometer grade movement.:lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀       
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
    • Before putting it back in the case I would fit the hands and use a pin vice on the stem to make sure the hands were in line. 
×
×
  • Create New...