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    • It may have a two-piece barrel-arbor. That means that in order to remove it from the bridge, you must unscrew the sides of the arbor. That's what I had to do do on a Vacheron that I worked on recently. When oldhippy wakes up, he may tell you that the arbor has left-handed threads, so be careful, and don't proceed until you know. You can snap the square off the arbor. Sorry to say, but I have done it. If you indeed got as lucky as you think you did when you pulled the balance, it was probably because there was very little power left in the mainspring. All's well if it ends well. Good luck with the watch.
    • For movements with capped 3rd and escape wheel pivot jewels like Seikos Orients Rolex etc, which oil should the one for 3rd wheel be lubricated with? Only documentation I can find/have access to for such scenario comes from Seiko and they specify oiling the capped pivot with thin oil, but the uncapped dial side pivot with thick oil. Then again they also specify oiling the pallet pivots so I'm a bit unsure how religiously I want to follow their instructions. What is the commonly accepted practice here? Thin oil or thick oil?
    • I have bunch of similare looking bridge and no idea of thier identification, watchmaker estate.  I will look if I know what size to find. No problem shipping small items like a jewel. Regards 
    • I received the extractor Horetec screw drivers from Esslinger but the tips are too small for the screw head. They’re almost pointed, they’re so small.   What part of the screw should be measured in order to specify the correct extractor screw driver, the width of the shank, the diameter of the head, the height of the screw?   I know this should be elementary but I haven’t had to do this before.   Thanks in advance for your help.   Correction: “Horofix”, not Horotec.     Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  
    • There was talk tonight at a club I attend of possibly buying a 3D printer. I can think of movement holders and parts trays as obvious choices, but what else might one be useful for in a modern watch workshop? Also if anyone has any experience of them and has 'must haves' and 'must avoids' lists that'd be great!
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