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    • Avoid green Dialux. Use orange Dialux for major defect and dings, grey for scratches. Finish with blue Dialux on a muslin wheel. Work is much easier and faster if you place the rotary tool on a fixed stand.
    • My Breitling Airwolf A78363: My Seiko 6139-6011 which needs service and a new crystal. This won't be my only 6139-601x, I'm way too addicted to that absolutely gorgeous blue dial: My Seiko 6139-6020 (the red hue on the dial and hands is because of a red parasol). Hardly worn by the original owner: My Seiko SARB017: My Seiko SNA411: My Seiko Recraft Series SSC667 'Gulf': My Seiko SRP731K1 (NOS): I hope you enjoyed the post. Walter https://www.instagram.com/watchingtimepassby/
    • Hello dear watchmakers. I am trying to train myself to polish a watch. I got myself a Dramel 3000 and put a little pelt wheel. I applied green polishing paste and tried polishing a caseback in speed of 5 (out of 10 ) With Dramel, I tried polishing up and down then from side to side. I did get some scratches and even some printings out but the caseback is left with foggy traces. What have I done wrong and how should I fix it? I have attached the photos of polished caseback. (I forgot to take photo before doing the job) Great thanks.   
    • I think the slot cut in the base of that particular holder will prevent you from fouling the subseconds pivot in that particular position.    The continuous change of rate suggests to me that you may have uneven delivery of torque. That assumes that it continues to change when the watch is left in that position to settle down. The same can happen with A hairspring which isn’t vibrating consistently due to magnetism/sticking/fouling, but looking at your trace, my first guess would be friction in the train.    So, if this were my watch, I’d firstly do the billy-basics and check that the train runs freely with the pallets removed. What this test does not show you is of the train continues to run freely when under load. That seems to escape a lot of people. Under load, the side-thrust changes the orientation of the wheels and can lead to unwanted friction. Most common place for this to occur is between the barrel and centre wheel. So check the side-shake of the barrel and centre wheel - it’s sometimes easier to do this with the pallets installed as it allows you to gently push the barrel (or centre wheel) back and forth which usually reveals side-shake quite obviously.    Things I would try to avoid assuming, although ultimately you may need to try many things: - That the beat error is the cause.  - That the mainspring is set. 
    • They make a dust cover for that mike specifically but I think is very overpriced for something easily made. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/dust-cover-for-use-with-witschi-microphone?code=T52813
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