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    • I managed to figure it out. What pliers are the best to grab arbors without damaging them? I use sheet of papers trying to protect them. Pliers without teeth? Plus protection? I need to source a mainspring now and I cant find my bag of springs....
    • Folks. I have been interested in being able to build and machine a watch gear for some time now. I would love to cut one on my lathe, but the vintage addins are really hard to find. I am good with designing the gear and getting it CNCed by someone else or even printing the gear and filing it by hand. That said, I ran into a program called Gearotic V3 where you design a gear and a gear train and send the file to a CAD program.   Have any of you tried to do this or used this program for that purpose? It does have clock escapements it the designer but not watch lever escapements. Thoughts, suggestions, etc. the program was 120US, but no issue as I love learning and an adventure.     Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    • I would go so far as say its a very uncommon method, I've certainly never seen or heard of anyone doing that before. The end should just have a hook on the arbour and a hole in the spring so you should be able to remove it without dismantling any further. Likely the thread is just making that hard for you to see.
    • Hi *, The main spring is broken and someone tried to fix it by wrapping sewing thread around it? Is that a common method to fix mainsprings? I removed  the other half of mainspring, but how do i remove the arbor now to be able to remove the rest of the broken spring and replace it? I can see marks on the arbor do I have to grab it somehow? Or should I remove the ratchet wheel? Its pretty tight. Thanks in advance, Br, Lui
    • Use ammonia and rins with naptha or even better petroleum ether. Ammonia cleans up tarnish on brass and gold. Corrosion once has eaten material can only be repaired with lapping, There are easy techniques producing high-end effects, these are good to learn to develop a feel for materials and handling. It's not about timing, it's about "how correctly it runs". On a petrol engine you could tell by sound if a cylinder is not firing, but on watch it's not to easy judge by look and sounds alone. You want a regular pattern, sufficient amplitude, and and acceptable positional error. Only after that is all good then you move to correcting beat error and timing. The timegrapher is an unreplace itool once you work and even just service mechanical movements.
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