... thinking about this a little more deeply, it might be fun to acquire some plain steel hands and learn to blue them myself.
I'm sure that this won't be the most cost-effective way of fixing my specific issue, but I've been enamored with blued parts for a very long time and it would be delightful to be able to blue my own hands, screws, etc. in watches I make for friends and family.
I do have a stupid threshold question before going down this path, however -- there's a brass tube component that connects the hands with the pinions. Can one blue a set of steel hands with this little brass tube present, or does it need to be removed first? If the latter, this is going to be beyond me.
I figured out earlier that my CAL 400 ( CAL400 ) did not run not because of the balance jewels or the balance assembly, but because the escape wheel pivot holes are worn both in the main plate and the train wheels plate. The escape wheel pivots were really busy and dug a trench for themselves. Now I have a digital camera attached to my trinocular microscope so I could take a picture of it (i am still experimenting with it, not correctly set up yet and I probably will need an extra barlow lens.) I am very happy that I managed to solve the mystery even though it took me several weeks to figure it out. I am sure an experienced watchmaker could point this out in minutes as the pallets did not behave normal, i just did not know that what I can see was not normal that time.
Train wheels plate:
I have more recent Seiko movements 7s26, 4R36 and 6R15. I do not have Seiko greases but have some Swiss oils and greases. What do you recommend instead of the S4 and S6?
I think I could make use of Moebius 9501, I'm also looking to replace D5 with HP but not sure whether it's the 1300 or 1000
Hi All, I managed to reshape the hairspring in my Ricoh 61 project tonight. I am absolutely elated that I didn't give up and was successful in the end.
I managed to make some mistakes on the way but in the end I corrected them all.
I used hand remove levers to remove the hairspring from the balance wheel. The tips were too thick and I slipped and twisted the hairspring at the collet. Job for another day before I attempt it again is to thin down the hand levers. To correct the above I placed the collet on a pin and used tweezers to press down on the inner coil opposite where it was twisted up (under a binocular microscope).
Tweezers got dirty and I managed to transfer that to the hairspring causing the coils to stick together. I solved that with a quick dip in IPA followed by a quick dry. Best to try and avoid that in the first place.
Outer coil had to be reshaped to follow the path of the regulator pin. That took me a while to sort out. I did review some Ricoh hairspring images on Google and eBay to give me an idea of how the outer coil should be and then followed the helpful videos on YouTube.
Hairspring fitted back on balance, managed to position it so the jewel was 180 degrees to how it should be. Corrected this with tweezer tip in the collet slot while gently turning.
What I would do better next time. Better lighting would be the most important improvement I could make. It would have been a lot easier I believe with good lighting.
It was very tricky but I am a beginner. It was my first success with a hairspring reshape. I am 52 years old so a late starter. Hope this write up can help someone in future.
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