That incomplete work should not be regarded as if it is the bible of working on Seiko.
The following statement alone is considered wrong by pretty much any experienced watchmakers
And then he proceeds to hand fitting the mainspring to the barrel, problem is, that's a pretty strong one and the force required makes that you will leave probably some good amount of skin to add to the graphite loaded mess.
Looks like Seiko and others had good reasons to only supply barrels complete.
I'm truly intrigued by this as I'm having serious trouble getting any kind of decent power reserve even with the uber-expensive Kluber P125 lubricant. Have you ever tried 8200 in a Seiko barrel with a new Swiss Generale Ressorts mainspring? If so, did you get an acceptable result? At this point I'm so desperate that I'd be happy even if I would just get about 24 hours of power reserve. Your method is supported in "Chapter 10: The Mainspring" in the "Seiko 7S26 for Novice Horologist" tutorial, so you're obviously not alone!
Hello John, I understand what you mean, and you are right. In watchmaking I'm a rooky. I use video's, when available, when I work on calibers I didn't see before. It helps me by putting the movement together. I follow the procedure learned by Mark.
Hello everyone. I bought an old Colonial Grandmother clock which i was told runs but i cannot get it to do so. I think a piece connecting the pendulum to the clock came loose while driving and i have no idea where to attach it to. Thank you for any help.