Jump to content

Bergeon Demagnetiser Switch Replacement


JBerry

Recommended Posts

Hey folks,

I recently picked up this 2321 Bergeon Demagnetizer, the plastic ring that secures the momentary switch to the top of the wooden block had perished and snapped off, and no longer retains the button.

I'm fairly clueless when it comes to electronics. I picked up a new switch of the correct diameter, problem is I'm not sure if the switch is of the correct rating.

The switch is rated 3A 250V/AC, but I'm not sure about the amp rating of the demagnetizer. Anyone have any ideas?

dem 3.jpg

dem 2.jpg

dem 1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have a multimeter you can find the resistance of the coil, then divide the wall voltage by that to get your amp draw.

Amps = volt/ohms

If they had listed the wattage, you could use amps= watts/volts. By the same formula if we imagine it draws 2 amps, you'd be at almost 500 watts which I'm pretty sure it doesn't use. I think you are safe with your 3 amp switch.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, AndyHull said:

The only similar demagnetiser I could find on line states it is 80 Watts. That would be approximately 1/3 A at 240V or about 700 mA at 110V. A 2A or 3A switch should be fine.

Thanks for the advice Andy. I fit the switch and it's working well!

photo_2019-03-13_01-37-22.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

If you have a multimeter you can find the resistance of the coil, then divide the wall voltage by that to get your amp draw.

hmmm careful, multimeters measure resistance and you can't figure current knowing resistance and volts if its an AC signal with a coil .  I agree, if the power is given, then yes Ohm's law works, but we're dealing with with AC so the ohms has to be impedance not resistance....and you can't measure impedance with a multimeter (they measure resistance only, whereas impedance is resistance, inductance and capacitance, you need a fancy LCR).  

Look at it this way, if you connected a wire between the legs of AC mains, bang you blow the breaker.  But if you coil that same wire, it now has inductance.  That's why say a transformer (which is a wire connecting the mains but in a coil) doesn't blow the breaker.

I think the right answer was given on the switch so all is good, just saying with coils and AC keep in mind inductance has to part of applying ohms law to get power

 

Good job on the repair, it looks very professional

 

Edited by measuretwice
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, measuretwice said:

hmmm careful, multimeters measure resistance and you can't figure current knowing resistance and volts if its an AC signal with a coil .  I agree, if the power is given, then yes Ohm's law works, but we're dealing with with AC so the ohms has to be impedance not resistance....and you can't measure impedance with a multimeter (they measure resistance only, whereas impedance is resistance, inductance and capacitance, you need a fancy LCR).  

Look at it this way, if you connected a wire between the legs of AC mains, bang you blow the breaker.  But if you coil that same wire, it now has inductance.  That's why say a transformer (which is a wire connecting the mains but in a coil) doesn't blow the breaker.

I think the right answer was given on the switch so all is good, just saying with coils and AC keep in mind inductance has to part of applying ohms law to get power

 

Good job on the repair, it looks very professional

 

A very valid point. Also in some cases the power goes through other components before it reaches the coil. There may be some form of inrush current limiting device , an NTC or something similar,  that will also mess up your calculations if you simply try to gauge the current by measuring coil DC resistance, especially if you simply measure across the mains plug.

You can use a clamp meter to measure current, but you then need to clamp it round only one of either the live or the neutral. Simply clamping it round the whole mains cable wont give you a valid answer either.... and then we come to what do you mean by AC power, are you talking about average AC voltage or true RMS...etc...  but that is a whole different story.

In some simple cases, you can get a rough estimate by measuring the coil resistance, but it will only give you a possible ballpark figure.

In this particular case, it is probably near enough for our purposes. Anything more complicated (motors, active electronics or whatever), and you could be miles out.

Edited by AndyHull
Link to comment
Share on other sites

All correct, and I admire your knowledge, but why make the matter over complicated?

Here we have a coil without iron core and a low frequency of 50 or 60 Hz. You will find no relevant difference between AC or DC resistance...

Frank 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

38 minutes ago, praezis said:

All correct, and I admire your knowledge, but why make the matter over complicated?

Here we have a coil without iron core and a low frequency of 50 or 60 Hz. You will find no relevant difference between AC or DC resistance...

Frank 

It may seem that we are being pedantic, but it is more a case of highlighting and understanding the limitations of this technique, after all, for small values of flat, the earth is flat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, praezis said:

All correct, and I admire your knowledge, but why make the matter over complicated?

Here we have a coil without iron core and a low frequency of 50 or 60 Hz. You will find no relevant difference between AC or DC resistance...

 

good point, without the iron core they will be very close.   No interest in over complicating things, I overlooked lack of the iron core.  Point about caution on doing AC/coil/current calcs based on resistance stands as so often inductance is most of impedance

Edited by measuretwice
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
    • The stress is the force (on the spring) x distance. The maximum stress is at the bottom, and decreases up the arm. That's why they always break at the bottom. I used a round file, then something like 2000 grit to finish. I gave the rest of the arm a quick polish - no need for a perfect finish. Just make sure there are no 'notches' left from cutting/filing. The notches act like the perforations in your toilet paper 🤣
    • It's probably a cardinal rule for watch repair to never get distracted while at the bench. Yesterday, after finishing a tricky mainspring winding/barrel insertion (I didn't have a winder and arbor that fit very well) I mentally shifted down a gear once that hurdle was passed. There were other things going on in the room as I put the barrel and cover into the barrel closer and pressed to get that satisfying snap. But when I took it out I realized I never placed the arbor.  When opening a barrel, we are relying on the arbor to transfer a concentrically-distributed force right where it is needed at the internal center of the lid. However, when that isn't present it's difficult to apply pressure or get leverage considering the recessed position of the lid, the small holes in the barrel and the presence of the mainspring coils. It was a beat-up practice movement so I didn't take a lot of time to think it over and I pushed it out using a short right-angle dental probe placed in from the bottom, but that did leave a bit of a scratch and crease in the thin lid. I had also thought about pulling it using a course-threaded screw with a minor thread diameter smaller than the lid hole and a major diameter larger, but that may have done some damage as well.  Thinking about how this might have been handled had it been a more valuable movement, is there a method using watchmaking or other tools that should extract the lid with the least damage? 
    • 🤔 what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ? Making a small groove so the lubrication doesn't spread across the component but what if when lubing a little overspills and sits on the epilame .
×
×
  • Create New...