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A couple of questions regarding removing stem/crown and chrono hand


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When you have installed the hands checked everything is ok and the watch is now ready to go back into the movement. How do you remove the crown? it needs to be turned over to be removed, but now you risk the hands and dial being damaged.

 

Currently I have just been flipping it over and placing it gently in a movement holder, makes me nervous I’m going to damage the dial one day though. Any tips to guarantee the dial won’t be marked?

 

 

 

When working on a chronograph if you don’t get the centre chrono hand (mounted on top of minute and hour hands) completely central and need to remove the chrono hand to fit again. What do you do? Remove all three again or carefully try to remove the top chrono hand?

 

I’ve tried using the small horotec levers to gently prize the top hand away alone, but this means applying some pressure onto the minute hand. Must be a better way?

 

Looking forward to hear how you experience guys get round these simple (when you know how) issues [emoji846]

 

 

 

 

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I can't answer all of your questions but I can help on one. When flipping the movement over to remove the stem and crown, use a plastic movement holder such as the Bergeon 4040-P. I've never marred a dial with one of them. Some movements have a plastic movement holder which relieves you of the need for the above step. Most notably the Seiko models. The last time I installed a sweep chrono hand off the mark, I chose to remove all three hands in order to correct the problem so I would like to read responses on that issue as well.

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Yep also using the 4040-p [emoji1303] I’ve been through loads of marks videos and it always seems to cut short at this point, like no one is interested but I really want to see what he’s doing [emoji23]


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Maybe is stupid but i use my teeth. I hold the movement with my left hand. Press the setting lever with my right and pull the stem out with my teeth as a third hand. Hold my breath while i am doing it. Has worked so far.  Use a latex glove on my right hand  if the movement is finished and is about to be put back into the case. 

Edited by rogart63
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Being a novice I get Mrs eezy to pull the stem while I'm holding the other bits. Not very professional but I know my limitations.

I  take all 3 hands off. If using new hands or movement, I find they go on easier second time around.

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Depends on the movement. If i have a specific holder i use that . Have such for the valjoux and seiko 6139.  I can hold the reset button in while i center the chronograph hand.  I test some times before pressing all the way down.  Have not worked super much on Landeron  movement but some has a three piece case and you can put the hands on when it's in the case. Making it easy to hold the reset button in .  You didn't say what movement you are working on? 

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Depends on the movement. If i have a specific holder i use that . Have such for the valjoux and seiko 6139.  I can hold the reset button in while i center the chronograph hand.  I test some times before pressing all the way down.  Have not worked super much on Landeron  movement but some has a three piece case and you can put the hands on when it's in the case. Making it easy to hold the reset button in .  You didn't say what movement you are working on? 


Hi Rogart, that’s very interesting thanks.

I am getting to grips with the 7750 and I also have a clone 4130 movement.

I was also wondering why you hold the reset button down?

Everyday is a school day here [emoji3]


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53 minutes ago, AP1875 said:

you have to hold the reset button because when the button is depressed and held, the hammer is pinned up against the chrono wheel hearts thus holding the reset at exact zero while placing chrono hand on. if you dont do this your reset will most likely not reset to zero. also never did a reset on a 7750 but i have done it multiple times on seikos. I know seiko 6138-6139 for example has a faceted (D shape) chrono wheel pinion, so if you place the second hand down and its wrong, you will have to remove the hand and broach the hole or again, it will never reset to exact zero, and you only get 1 or 2 tries before you cant broach anymore and then your looking at a new second hand. I have a specific movement holder made for reseting seiko chronos, and i they are available for the 7750.

also those pullers you pictured are for curved dial you need the 30637-2, or bergeon does have and hand remover specifically for chronographs (5060) and its only a few dollars more than the 306 series pullers.

as far as turning movement over to remove crown you can get a movement holder specifically made for that movement, or get the bergeon 4040 however esllinger has one pretty much exactly the same for half the price. when you reverse the dial place a little ball of rodico on each point of the movement holder that will make contact with the dial. Or you make your own out of a block of wood, you can even have someone 3d print one for you. I make my own movement holders esp for my chronos so i can reset them, i takes measurements and build them in a 3d program then 3d print them.


Hi Rogart, that’s very interesting thanks.

I am getting to grips with the 7750 and I also have a clone 4130 movement.

I was also wondering why you hold the reset button down?

Everyday is a school day here emoji3.png


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you h

Edited by saswatch88
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you have to hold the reset button because when the button is depressed and held, the hammer is pinned up against the chrono wheel hearts thus holding the reset at exact zero while placing chrono hand on. if you dont do this your reset will most likely not reset to zero. also never did a reset on a 7750 but i have done it multiple times on seikos. I know seiko 6138-6139 for example has a faceted (D shape) chrono wheel pinion, so if you place the second hand down and its wrong, you will have to remove the hand and broach the hole or again, it will never reset to exact zero, and you only get 1 or 2 tries before you cant broach anymore and then your looking at a new second hand. I have a specific movement holder made for reseting seiko chronos, and i they are available for the 7750.

also those pullers you pictured are for curved dial you need the 30637-2, or bergeon does have and hand remover specifically for chronographs (5060) and its only a few dollars more than the 306 series pullers.

as far as turning movement over to remove crown you can get a movement holder specifically made for that movement, or get the bergeon 4040 however esllinger has one pretty much exactly the same for half the price. when you reverse the dial place a little ball of rodico on each point of the movement holder that will make contact with the dial. Or you make your own out of a block of wood, you can even have someone 3d print one for you. I make my own movement holders esp for my chronos so i can reset them, i takes measurements and build them in a 3d program then 3d print them.

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On 3/9/2019 at 1:09 AM, saswatch88 said:

you have to hold the reset button because when the button is depressed and held, the hammer is pinned up against the chrono wheel hearts thus holding the reset at exact zero while placing chrono hand on. if you dont do this your reset will most likely not reset to zero. also never did a reset on a 7750 but i have done it multiple times on seikos. I know seiko 6138-6139 for example has a faceted (D shape) chrono wheel pinion, so if you place the second hand down and its wrong, you will have to remove the hand and broach the hole or again, it will never reset to exact zero, and you only get 1 or 2 tries before you cant broach anymore and then your looking at a new second hand. I have a specific movement holder made for reseting seiko chronos, and i they are available for the 7750.

also those pullers you pictured are for curved dial you need the 30637-2, or bergeon does have and hand remover specifically for chronographs (5060) and its only a few dollars more than the 306 series pullers.

as far as turning movement over to remove crown you can get a movement holder specifically made for that movement, or get the bergeon 4040 however esllinger has one pretty much exactly the same for half the price. when you reverse the dial place a little ball of rodico on each point of the movement holder that will make contact with the dial. Or you make your own out of a block of wood, you can even have someone 3d print one for you. I make my own movement holders esp for my chronos so i can reset them, i takes measurements and build them in a 3d program then 3d print them.

Hmm I have never heard of this before, however my experience is fairly limited. Thanks for sharing and explaining in detail. The only way I learn is from here and youtube. However I have never seen Mark do this is any of his videos.

So can you do no harm by pressing the chronograph buttons?

I've always been careful no to press them in whilst no hands are mounted. I have the AF 7750 movement holder, so will try the method above..

 

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21 hours ago, AP1875 said:

Hmm I have never heard of this before, however my experience is fairly limited. Thanks for sharing and explaining in detail. The only way I learn is from here and youtube. However I have never seen Mark do this is any of his videos.

So can you do no harm by pressing the chronograph buttons?

I've always been careful no to press them in whilst no hands are mounted. I have the AF 7750 movement holder, so will try the method above..

 

You cant do any harm really, but when you hold the button down while setting the chrono hand there is no need to press down too hard that may cause damage to the recording wheel hearts. Just hold it firmly but dont over do it. there is a hand setting press on ebay that is only $13 this helps keep the chrono hand steady while holding down the reset button. trying to hold down the reset button with one hand and then using other hand to grab tweezers, place the hand on the pinion, and then press it with a hand held press without making it move off zero can be tricky. the hand press helps with that, and is an overall good tool because even when putting hands on in a normal situation it will allow you to press hands down so they lay parallel with the dial.

Edited by saswatch88
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You cant do any harm really, but when you hold the button down while setting the chrono hand there is no need to press down too hard that may cause damage to the recording wheel hearts. Just hold it firmly but dont over do it. there is a hand setting press on ebay that is only $13 this helps keep the chrono hand steady while holding down the reset button. trying to hold down the reset button with one hand and then using other hand to grab tweezers, place the hand on the pinion, and then press it with a hand held press without making it move off zero can be tricky. the hand press helps with that, and is an overall good tool because even when putting hands on in a normal situation it will allow you to press hands down so they lay parallel with the dial.


Should you hold down the reset button with all Chronographs? If it’s not going to cause any harm.

Yes I’ve found it very tricky sometimes to get the hand to stay pointing to 12’oclock this is what prompted my question about removing the chrono hand. I have done it on occasions straight away. More often than not I find it slips a tiny bit, on this occasion towards 11’oclock everytime, it made me think is the pinion the hand is on actually round. When I finally set it correctly I ran the chronograph and it didn’t reset to 0, slightly off towards 1 o’clock, which why I’m very interested in this subject [emoji851].

I have a press like this

902bb52a0b765ab444c1cf796bbc6a0e.jpg


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