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Removing a Balance Staff with a Staking Tool

margolisd
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clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

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The key to removing balance staff is not to damage / bend the balance arm. The platax tool used correctly supports the arm and the correct tool to be used with a staking tool also supports the balance arm. However for this reason I always now remove as much of the rivet as I can before pushing out the old balance to avoid any possible damage to the arm. 

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nad WRT Addict

nad

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Good advice in prior posts.

I've the C version of the type of staking set that the video that video in OH's posting has a link to. The D version has the addition of the base for the tool.

The Unruh-Max, the tool for balance staff removal, appears at 1:05 in the video. It doesn't come as part of the C set and I don't think it's part of the D set as standard.

There is one currently on e-bay UK which looks to be ok. Item 153398604657 (I've no connection to this item.)

I bought mine on e-bay a few years back following a prior post on this forum. It can be used with most staking sets not just Bergeon branded sets. I have used mine on a few pocket watches.

The K&D tool that you have a link to is a different tool but fundemenly is designed for the same task as the Unruh-Max. That is they are balance staff removal tools.

Whichever tool you choose to use to remove the staff, you will need a decent staking set of punches and anvils to rivet the new staff on to the balance wheel.




Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk

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clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

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I have one. It fits into your staking tool and it shocks (via a spring) out the balance.However be aware that if it does not work due to a tight fitting balance damage can happen to the balance. I always remove some of the rivet first damaging the balance can be a real head ache.

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nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

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3 hours ago, clockboy said:

I have one. It fits into your staking tool and it shocks (via a spring) out the balance.However be aware that if it does not work due to a tight fitting balance damage can happen to the balance. I always remove some of the rivet first damaging the balance can be a real head ache.

That's the thing with the various "removing tools", they tend to work OK until they don't. I know not everyone has or wants a lathe, but it really is the best tool for removing staffs, my preference is to turn off the hub for zero risk of enlarging the hole.

I have used the K&D tool in the past, fairly often when I was working in a trade shop while in school. No lathe in that shop. I imagine it works as well as a Platax, which is to say pretty well. I still have the tool but it hasn't been used in 20 years.

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rodabod Distinguished Member

rodabod

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I’ve never had an issue with using a Platax. I’ve seen balance wheels which have damage due to over-enthusiastic work with the graver when a staff has been turned down. But you could easily damage a balance wheel by incorrectly using a Platax. 

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clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

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I had an incident with the platax on a vintage Rolex it was tight & I must admit I did give more force than usual. When I tried to fit the new balance to was too loose. It may have been the new balance was wrong but I suspect the hole had stretched. Ironically a few months later in my BHI mag the subject of removing vintage Rolex balances was covered. It was stated the balances on the vintage Rolex were made of hard metal and the guy annealed them first before removing some of the rivet. 

 Anyway, since then I now always remove some of the rivet. 

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rduckwor WRT Addict

rduckwor

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On 3/6/2019 at 11:56 AM, margolisd said:

Thanks OH. But which one is the balance staff remover? I thought it would look something like this.

 

I spent a tense hour watching this guy's video for the process.  I have to admit, while he goes about it in the wrong way many times, he would be me if I talked to myself while working.  His frustration is familiar.


RMD

 

< Clearly, editing is too much trouble for him!:;)>

Edited by rduckwor
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