Jump to content

Landeron 48 reset problem - stumped!


Recommended Posts

Hi folks,
I’m really stumped on this one. I’ve repaired several dozen landeron 48 movements, but my last 2 have had the same issue. Start chronofunction works perfect, everything goes as expected. Nice clean crisp click to the correct position of the hammer (8219). When I try to stop the chrono, the button (and hammer) get stuck. Hammer does not click to the first stop position. The hammer needs a little help, just a hair of movement to click to the right place. Once here, second push of button to reset function works fine. My best guess is that something is interfering with the hammer, preventing it from getting to just the right place to click into ‘stop’ position. I thought maybe it’s the hammer spring, but I can’t see how that could be. I’ve checked friction of the operating lever (8139), which has noticeable differences between my two subjects, but I don’t believe it’s this piece either.

Anyone encounter the same issue? What am I doing wrong because I must have missed something.

Thank you kindly!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you changed any parts? I have noticed that some parts are different even if they are Landeron 48 .  I had the same problem but can't remember what is did to fix it? Maybe a screw in the wrong place? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all for your replies. I appreciate it.

I’ve found the solution. It turns out that the tightness of the screw for the operating lever (8139) must be very tight.  Maybe a hair tighter than you think it can or should go. Once tightened, all worked great for both watches that had the issue. I was thinking originally that there was too much friction, too much tightness in some screws, so I started loosening some, obviously with no success. Very glad to have solved this problem and to share.

re:screws in the wrong place, I learned some time back on the forums a clever trick. Put the chrono screws back in place after unscrewing and removing parts. This way, screws always in the right place. Huge time saver.

all best,

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Arthurliu82 said:

re:screws in the wrong place, I learned some time back on the forums a clever trick. Put the chrono screws back in place after unscrewing and removing parts. This way, screws always in the right place. Huge time saver.

I now realize I underestimated you a bit... sometimes being eager to help, I don't process the entire post...

I have only serviced one Landeron 48 and I learned the screws - this is an exercise I am doing - to learn what screw goes where...

...and now that I carefully read that you repaired (not serviced, repaired!) - several dozen Landeron 48's...

 

That was a weak advice... I'll try to do better next time!

But I now know where to go for Landeron advice :)

Edited by matabog
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
×
×
  • Create New...