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    • By CaptCalvin
      Today I show off what is probably the most accurate Seiko NH35 in existence.
      Let's see what this brand spankin' new Invicta does on the timegrapher:

      Oof. Ya hate ta see it. I know these numbers aren't anything to cry over for an 80 dollar automatic, but considering how these days microbrands stick this movement in watches costing hundreds more, and Seiko themselves with the equivalent 4R in watches costing even more, it's just not great. The rate itself to me is a trivial matter as nudging on the regulator is a trivial task. But what speaks to the quality of a movement in my eyes is the consistency of that rate in different positions. With 12 seconds per day difference across positions, middling amplitude, and fluctuating rate while static, albeit slight, is all just a bit "meh" to me. 
      Let's crack it open and see what we can do.
      .
      Hairspring seems to be pulling towards stud.

      Hairspring removed from balance and mounted on cock and we can see the full extent of the malformity. That collet is a good ways off from the jewel.
      Few hours of sweat later:

      Much better! Regulator now runs the full length of the terminal curve without disturbance and collet is centered on jewel.
      Let's check out what else I saw:

      Some places are absolutely flooded.

      While others just barely got any. A good thing I intervened. This thing needed to be redone top to bottom.

      Stripped apart, ready to get rid of the crappy factory lube job, and get a real, proper lube job.
      All put together, lubed, and few rounds of dynamic poising later:

      Massive boost in amplitude,  runs on rails and a measly 1 second difference across all positions. Wasn't lying when I said "probably the most accurate Seiko NH35 in existence." See for yourself.
      Isn't it at the moment a bit of a waste that this souped up NH35 is being trapped inside its Invicta skin? What do you think? 
    • By Krishan
      Hi, so I recently got a seiko 5 snk809 and it was working fine, I then decided to regulate it as it was losing about 1 minute a day. After I regulated it it was working fine then stopped so I shook it to wind it up and then it started working. After 5 minutes it stopped again so I wound it up and it would work but then stop after a couple of minutes. I checked to see if the watch was being winded and it was, so the watch had power but just wouldn't move, I dont know why this is, the watch has power but will only run for a minute or two when I shake it, this hasn't happened before to this watch, so if anyone could help that would be great.
      Thanks
    • By Amateurwatchbreaker
      I have a seiko 7548-700f that I bought at a flea market for 15 dollars. Very beat up. Heavy scratches on the back near the lugs. Looks like the previous owner didn't know how to take a case back off properly. Last year during a battery change the screwdriver slipped and i hit the coil block. I managed to replace it without trouble. Starting a couple of months ago it started losing time. LOTS of time. I would take it off overnight and in the morning it would be 5 hours behind the correct time. Happens no matter what position the watch is in. I suspect that this is because the hole for the center wheel is not circular anymore. I know this means I need a service but I can not afford one. I am in highschool with no job. I have posted similar threads to this on several different sites, but no one is helpful. They tell me to get a job or to just pay to service it. What should I do? Should I learn to service it myself or is it even worth it?
    • By Mazboy
      I'm about to start working on a Seiko 6602 and would like to be able to put it on the timegrapher before and after and see how well it works but i'm struggling to identify the correct lift angle for it.  It seems to be missing from all the general lift angle lists I've come across.  I've read in other posts that most Seiko's are either 52 / 54.5 but which is it for this movement, can anyone help please?
    • By JayK
      Hello All.
      I'm a fellow watch enthusiast from the North-East of England. I hope everyone is keeping well.
      I recently bought myself a cheap watch repair kit, dusted off the old watch storage box and started to giving my watches the attention they required, it's been going quite well so far but do need some guidance with the correct steps of putting the workings and the case back on for my Accurist GMT Grand Complication, hopefully I will do a separate post on this with pics.
      Anyway hope everyone is having a decent Friday night. 
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    • So perhaps Moebius 9501 or Moebius 9504 grease?
    • We had another member recently looking for reassurance about using Seiko lubricants, but no amount of good reasoning prevented him from spending on that. Probably caused by blind faith in written material over relying on other's experience when it comes to a question asked many times on this forum alone. I use 8301 there. A bit messy and natural based, still better than leaving it dry like the factory does.
    • I don't think you can really pump in oil in there since the air trapped in prevents that. And any oil left on the flat facing the balance is count productive. So the fine applicator is used to push some oil in the hole.  That is my understanding at least.
    • Rub-in jewels have integrated end stone, out of obsession I am always concerned if I have managed to get enough oil on its end stone, automatic oiler seem assuring to have dispensed that certain amount of oil there,  one can double the amount by pumping twice and the exactness of the amount is a nice control to have. In a sense, same story with screw on end stones, you can just screw the end stone on and then oil. Much neater outcome since end stone plate/ holder is sure to move when you try to place it on and oil gets spread around by the old method.  I use old accupuncture needles as oiler.    
    • I wouldn't follow the Seiko guide too closely. There's the obviously questionable suggestion that you oil the pallet pivots, and there's the use of "S-6" in parts of the train. That's a grease, and I know of no other manufacturer that call for the use of grease in any part of the train in any caliber this size. I would improvise and use HP1300 there like any other automatic device. I would however use some grease on pawl and ratchet teeth on the second reduction wheel. I can see that wearing down over time without a heavier lubricant.
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