Jump to content

Eta 2834-2 behaves weird


Gaus

Recommended Posts

Have you demagnetised the watch and all your tools you are using to repair it? Are you using the correct oil? Making sure, you use the right amount on the escarpment.  Never oil the pivots on the pallets. Make sure the hairspring is nice and clean.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Inadequate data.   

Graph?                        Show top and side view close up video/ pix of the oscillator.   

Staff end shake?    Check if HS fouls itself, sticky, unlevel or touches the wheel/ cock

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
34 minutes ago, Gaus said:

See the picture. This is after cleaning and without motion/calenderwork. Dirty/sticky hs?

IMG_2245.JPG

Is this dial down? We already know dial up was good.

You did not disclose the end shake.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

37 minutes ago, Gaus said:

See the picture. This is after cleaning and without motion/calenderwork. Dirty/sticky hs?

I'm not sure it makes any difference what way it's positioned when the graph looks like this, the suspicion OldHippy had from the beginning seems to have been spot on since this looks like a typical dirty/magnetized hairspring. 
Just a thought before doing anything else .. clean and demagnetize...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have to say moving fast in vertical is not something you hear everyday. Sticking hairspring sound like obvious cause but i would suspect that if it was sticking you would have the same reading in the 12 down vertical position as well, assuming the hairspring is not out of shape. if it runs normal 12 down then closely inspect balance pivots, make sure they are not bent and the ends are domed and not faceted in any way. another good idea is to open case back place watch in the trouble position and use extreme magnification or slow motion feature with zoom on your phone if you have one, and check the coils of the spring, observe how they expand and contract, are the spaces between the coils even, or does one coil have a wider gap on one side than it does on the opposite side, if so then you hairspring may be out of shape. I also have to agree with Nuce that BW can be out of shape too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The stress is the force (on the spring) x distance. The maximum stress is at the bottom, and decreases up the arm. That's why they always break at the bottom. I used a round file, then something like 2000 grit to finish. I gave the rest of the arm a quick polish - no need for a perfect finish. Just make sure there are no 'notches' left from cutting/filing. The notches act like the perforations in your toilet paper 🤣
    • It's probably a cardinal rule for watch repair to never get distracted while at the bench. Yesterday, after finishing a tricky mainspring winding/barrel insertion (I didn't have a winder and arbor that fit very well) I mentally shifted down a gear once that hurdle was passed. There were other things going on in the room as I put the barrel and cover into the barrel closer and pressed to get that satisfying snap. But when I took it out I realized I never placed the arbor.  When opening a barrel, we are relying on the arbor to transfer a concentrically-distributed force right where it is needed at the internal center of the lid. However, when that isn't present it's difficult to apply pressure or get leverage considering the recessed position of the lid, the small holes in the barrel and the presence of the mainspring coils. It was a beat-up practice movement so I didn't take a lot of time to think it over and I pushed it out using a short right-angle dental probe placed in from the bottom, but that did leave a bit of a scratch and crease in the thin lid. I had also thought about pulling it using a course-threaded screw with a minor thread diameter smaller than the lid hole and a major diameter larger, but that may have done some damage as well.  Thinking about how this might have been handled had it been a more valuable movement, is there a method using watchmaking or other tools that should extract the lid with the least damage? 
    • 🤔 what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ? Making a small groove so the lubrication doesn't spread across the component but what if when lubing a little overspills and sits on the epilame .
    • Why just the bottom mike ? Is it worth polishing the whole arm ?
    • The one thing I took time over was to round and polish the curves at the bottom of the jumper arm. The slightest mark (left over from cutting of filing) acts as a stress raiser, just where you don't need it. 
×
×
  • Create New...