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seattle watch absolute beginner


leftofthedial

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Hi. Im totally new to watch repair. I have a couple old watches I really like that need some help. Ive been interested in learning how to fix them for years. I finally ordered some tools and I am going to start trying to learn some basics on a Seiko 7S26. That should keep me busy for the winter! I just wanted to introduce myself because I think I will have many questions. Thanks, leftofthedial

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    • Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different.
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    • Mike if you wanna drop me your address I'll send you a strip of this cs 100 in an envelope . I'd like your opinion of its workability  The cs100 might be better carbon is 1%
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