i wonder if anyone could offer some advice. I have an Omega seamaster 1345 quartz day date. Working well. However it seems the date is stuck (as shown in pictures) i know the push button at the 4 o clock position is meant to filter through the date? However when pushed in nothing seems to happen. As a result of this the watch works fine but only up untill 11pm it doesnt turn over to midnight and therefor change the day or date. Minute hand works perfectly but it seems i have to change the hour position every morning.
when i turn the crown, hour hand moves fune and after the 12 o clock position changes the day, but date does not moth along with it.
anyone know how i can resolve this safely without removing too many parts of the movement?
This one is a real mystery so I thought I'd toss it up here in case someone else has come across this problem.
I've reassembled the Speedmaster which was lacking parts (see my earlier inquiry) and have it up and running again. It's a long story, but amazingly, after missing a bundle of parts and being terribly neglected it's ticking away happily and the chronograph works a treat- but there is one BIG problem. The watch runs about two seconds per minute fast. That adds up pretty quickly. The timegrapher trace isn't too clean but it is consistent and it shows the watch running much better than that (note the image only shows about fifteen seconds of testing on the timegrapher- rest assured, I've had it on there a lot longer than that and have pretty much the same results in all positions)
So why does the timegrapher show the watch running less than a minute off per day but the real world results are so much different? Well there are a few possible problem areas. The escapement may be the problem but the pallet and balance (complete) are NOS replacements from Omega. The escape wheel may be an issue- perhaps it's "slipping" and the pallet isn't locking consitantly. I haven't seen this on the timegrapher though nor have I seen it while watching the escapement under the microscope.
Still, there are some obvious issues in the movement. Whoever disassembled it before I got it made a real mess of things. For example the Delrin wheel on the coupling clutch was vandalized terribly by a wayward screwdriver. It took quite a while to get the gear teeth back in order (the "before" picture is below). I secured a NOS replacement just in case the movement didn't accept the repaired coupling clutch.
Despite this damage, I don't think the coupling clutch is the problem. The fourth wheel is positioned between the coupling clutch and the escape wheel. It's regulated by the escape wheel and the running seconds hand is attached to the fourth wheel. When I time how long it takes for the running seconds hand to make a full revolution using the stopwatch built into my iPhone, I come up with 58.02 seconds (give or take a few tenths).
I'm thinking the problem lies with the fourth wheel. The Lemania 5012 chronograph movement (Tissot 2920) runs at a slower 21600 BPM. The replacement of the fourth wheel in this movement (a Lemania 5100, 28800 BPM derivative) with one manufactured for the 5012 movement would result in the watch running fast. It's questionable whether the gear teeth would mesh properly though. Right now it's just a guess. I may need to tear the movement back down to check the gear ratios for each of the wheels in the train to confirm they're the right wheels for the movement but before I do that I was hoping someone might have solved a mystery such as this before and have some good advice to offer! Thanks in advance for the comments as they are always helpful!
Here's a few pics of the watch as it came together- just because posts with pictures are always more interesting.
Before service begins...
Why you should periodically replace your spring bars-
Omega gaskets self destruct (turn into tar) if they aren't replaced for forty years...
This movement is plastic fantastic but I love it. Other than not keeping time at all, it's the easiest chronograph movement I've worked on.
Look at all those scratches- previous watchmaker's tool of choice- screwdriver or machete?
It is a pretty beast though.
Got this into my bench, but I wonder how ta get the movment out?
I have taken of the glass, removed the stem, but when I trie to move the ring with grooves(red circles) the movment follows anti clock wice.
Is it so simple that I have to hold the movment tight while Im doing it?
I am relatively new to this hobby. I am an electronics engineer by profession in Los Angeles. I have been designated as the go to person for replacing watch batteries and fixing vintage & modern electronic gadgets for almost my entire life. Recent past, my father told me in casual conversation that his watch was running slow. I didn't know until later on that it was an automatic movement, which got me down this slippery slope. Since then I have downloaded time grapher apps, bought a dedicated chinese time grapher, purchased a set of tools that would rival Marks workshop...lol. I tend to do that, get hooked and immerse myself in things that interest me. I am an amateur radio operator, machinist, wood worker, photographer...on and on. I have learned a lot about a lot of things and have been successful in using that knowledge which keeps me motivated.
I fix and restore old film cameras and have a collection of prized fully functional 40's through 1981 SLR cameras. I got so good at it, I had a steady stream of people willing to pay me whatever I wanted to get their vintage/classic cameras re-sealed, cleaned, lubricated and adjusted. I no longer add to my collection since getting married....lol. But always keep an eye out for a rare find. Before the above, I was into machining. I have a full machining table stop workshop. 14" lathe, 24" 3-in-one lathe/mill,/drill, belt sander, grind/polisher, assortment of dremels and many other goodies. I also learned to MIG weld. I built up a dune buggy single axle carrier trailer for my brother-in-law to drag behind his truck (still in service 7 years later). That was a learning experience. I watched lots of videos and talked to professional welders. Ended up doing exercises of all kinds of welds and cutting them open to see the depth of penetration to learn how to dial in my machine for various thicknesses.
I have many other interests that I have embraced and learned by doing, going to spare you the rest LOL....I am passionate about learning.
My current projects:
1). Refinishing the cabinet and restoring the electronics on a 1930 Philco Model 77 low boy radio.
2). Refinishing and restoring an old library cart. My wife and I have plans for this, maybe a mobile bar LOL...
3). Making a kitchen knife set for my wife. I know, easier to buy, but for me it's all about the journey. I made my first Santoku and she uses it a lot. Bought metal blanks, shaped and grinded it (via printed template from pictures) into what looks like a pretty good knife that holds its edge well.
4). Restoring a 1980 Star Wars themed alarm clock. I have the old record player mechanism working. The Bradley wind up clock is running slow even when the external speed adjustment is maxed out at the ++ mark. That should be a learning experience.
5). Assembled an ETA 2824-2 movement watching Mark's and other videos on youtube. It is in a beautiful watch now (for my dad's birthday) that I built from German and Swiss part sources. I ran into the problem where the stem would not fit back in the mechanism while fitting a new stem/crown to the case. Thanks Mark for the detailed video on how to fix that, took me about 1 hour of trying various things before I figured it out. Watch works wonderfully, in beat in 5 positions and my worst is +3 seconds per day, stem up. Dial up it bounces between +1 and 0.
I will ask a lot of question so please bear with me, this is all still new to me :)
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considering this is not a hacking movement i would agree with JD, if it is hacking then the crown is not seated correctly and the watch is hacking......but i will put my money on it that it has a dirty stuck mainspring vert common on these older watches i see all the time, and the seller means putting pressure on the crown as if your trying to wind the watch, that pressure basically forces energy on to the train forcing it to tick, once crown is let go the tension comes off and the watch stops. in this case the mainspring will need to be changed or cleaned, oiled, and re installed.
the screws support the pinions when pressing hands on. the hand being off could have just been you not pressing on perfectly. as far as clone 7750 goes they really arent top notch when compared to the eta, the chinese have no quality control and the chrono arms always have more play in them compared to the eta because of the way they are riveted together, make sure there is no play in the rivets. but the spring is 100% your issue it may be popping out when hit the start button look at the pic i attached the spring should but up against the pinion arm. that spring pushes the arm and allows the pinion to make contact with the center wheel which makes the chrono run when you hit the start button, then pull back when stopping chrono. also i have to ask is the rolex real? if so go spend $400 and get an official valjoux 7750. you will thank me later