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    • By Linz
      Hello all,
      I know it's 'only' an electrical one but to say I'm overjoyed is a bit of an understatement.
      My Grandfather gave me this, his 1982 retirement watch, 20 years ago as an empty case and strap - the innards had apperently been slowly demolished over the years by a leaky battery and where nowhere to be found.
      At the start of the locky-down thing I decided it was time to do a bit of research to see if the parts could be found to rebuild it, bit of a baptism of fire as a total newby. It soon became evident that this search should have been done years ago because Omega restricted parts coupled with a dearth of NOS parts was a real headache! 
      Through all this research I also realised just how rare the case and bracelet style were so persisted for months, getting my claws on some old, rough, nasty and for want of a better word, crap bits and pieces. As we know the circuit and coil are getting really rare but even more rare it seems are the winding pinions and dials for them, and even the crap parts are ludicrously expensive. You know how you get into something, buy bits, realise your up to your neck in it but realise you're to far in it to retreat?
      Suffice to say, I've had so much support from several people in the watchmaker community so with their help and shear dogged, billigerence and blatant stubbornness it is finally running. Still some work to do -  the date needs to start changing at half 11 because it takes two hours to change, the seconds hand needs lining up better with the minute markers and I've toyed with the idea of restoring the dial, with some lacquer and minute markers missing (or maybe not, as it's a sign of its individuality!) 
      Having enjoyed it for a while I'll also take it all apart again and service it, only because of Lawson''s brilliant walk-through on the 1337 movement on this forum. 
      Never really thought of a bi-colour watch like this as my style, but with the blood, sweat, tears and more sweat and tears that has gone into it, I've decided I love it to bits. Thank you all for your never ending inspiration and such generous shared knowledge Mark Lovick and everyone - great bunch of people you lot!

    • By daveincarthage
      Got a ladies Omega De Ville in an auction lot today. My limit for repairs to this point has been installing batteries. The watch runs but runs several hours fast. 
      I know there are a few reasons it could be running fast. I don't have a degausser but suspect it could be magnetized. 
      What are some other things I should consider or questions I should ask if I take it in for repair?
      Also, do you know if there was originally a plastic retaining ring to secure the movement in the case? There was none when I opened the back.
      Thanks in advance!

    • By jakobvinkas
      Not sure if this is the right place for my question since I do not intend to do the repair myself. However I am wondering if anyone knows an approximate price of a tachymeter for the Omega 3520.50 day-date (tripple date).
      If anyone has any idea what a insert and the "repair" would cost at a watch shop, please let me know.
      Thanks in advance.

    • By east3rn
      I am about to work on a Omega ladies automatic watch.
      I found out that the axis of the rotor is out of place and shakes up and down.
      What could be done in this situation?

    • By arkobugg
      Cheers mates!!
      Had to get new winding stem to an Omega cal. 342 , beacuse not original crown.
      Got an replacement from Ronda, but does not fit.
      Tried to fit the stem yesterday, but Im not able to get in in right in the movment.   The original just go right in every time, but the new Ronda stem will not go properly in.   Are there anyone that have some ide why this not fit?   Can the notch in the stem where I have put red arrow have somthing todo with this??   Its slightly smaller on the Ronda stem...  se photo  

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    • I don't think there is any hard and fast rule. I take off the balance with full power in the mainspring sometimes. Like when you put the watch on the timegrapher and something doesn't look right. My only rule is never take the pallet fork out when there is power. But.... Is there anyone out there that hasn't done that accidentally?  On older pocket watches with cylinder escapements, there is no pallet fork. In these type of movements, taking off the balance before power down will result in the gear train running at full speed. Don't ask me how I know that. On automatic watches that the winding stem does not engage the ratchet wheel, the way to power down the mainspring is to use a large screwdriver to engage the the barrel screw then release the click spring. Then slowly allow the screwdriver to release power from the mainspring. I wish there was a proper tool to do this, like a special screwdriver with a friction controlled release button. Does anyone know of a tool like that?
    • Thank you, fatality rate dropped considerably in the wake of lockdown and its picking up speed again, new preventive measures were put into effect as of yesterday. A bit of good news anounced on TV last night, researchers in Tehran have had success producing Vaccine, said to start testing it on human and expectedly be ready to present to WHO in three months.  And that we expect better news from research institutes out of four other countries before long.   AmGen said to have made substantial progress, Expected of the Giant.  
    • Thank you.  Hope your country comes out ok with this virus.  I have been hearing the news about how bad it is there.
    • Welcome to the forum.  
    • Thanks for the helpful answer. What about non-handwinding automatic movements? Even if I'm able to find the click, I'm worried about releasing it without being able to control the power release by holding the crown. Is there a method for doing this on these type of automatics? Similarly, when it comes time to reassemble and place the balance on the movement, what is the preferred wind the mainspring in a small, incremental way when there is no keyless mechanism?
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