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    • By arkobugg
      Cheers mates!!
      Had to get new winding stem to an Omega cal. 342 , beacuse not original crown.
      Got an replacement from Ronda, but does not fit.
      Tried to fit the stem yesterday, but Im not able to get in in right in the movment.   The original just go right in every time, but the new Ronda stem will not go properly in.   Are there anyone that have some ide why this not fit?   Can the notch in the stem where I have put red arrow have somthing todo with this??   Its slightly smaller on the Ronda stem...  se photo  

    • By arkobugg
      Cheers Mates!
       
      Working on a Omega Cal. 613, have done service, and watch performs well on the time-grapher, but when put dial and hand on, I can see that the
       
       
       
       
    • By Harmines
      Hello all
      i wonder if anyone could offer some advice. I have an Omega seamaster 1345 quartz day date. Working well. However it seems the date is stuck (as shown in pictures) i know the push button at the 4 o clock position is meant to filter through the date? However when pushed in nothing seems to happen. As a result of this the watch works fine but only up untill 11pm it doesnt turn over to midnight and therefor change the day or date. Minute hand works perfectly but it seems i have to change the hour position every morning.
      when i turn the crown, hour hand moves fune and after the 12 o clock position changes the day, but date does not moth along with it.
      anyone know how i can resolve this safely without removing too many parts of the movement? 
      Many thanks




    • By Harmines
      Good evening everyone. I am new to this forum and i can see we have some outstanding experts on the site.
      brand new to watch repair and looking to get some advice. I purchased an Omega seamaster quarts 1342 watch (not currently working and not tested) as it was a bargain and understand that 329 is the equivalent of the original mercury battery used when the watch was manufactured?
      I am hoping the battery change will mean it is functional but in the event it does not work, how easy/costly is it to repair. (I’ve heard parts can turn this bargain into a money pit)
      would anyone in this community willing to have a go at fixing it after i try battery change?
      paid service of course.
      any help advice would be much appreciated
      thank you 
       
    • By arkobugg
      Cheers mates!!
      Got this into my bench, but I wonder how ta get the movment out?
      I have taken of the glass, removed the stem, but when I trie to move the ring with grooves(red circles) the movment follows anti clock wice.
      Is it so simple that I have to hold the movment tight while Im doing it?

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    • Don't forget to clean it off spit with distilled water or isopropanol afterwards though, as it contains quite a lot of bacteria, which may dine out on the varnish in the long term. The bacterial content of human saliva is the main reason I would suggest that you never blow in to a watch, or breath on to a camera lens to "clean" it. Slightly more aggressive is white vinegar, which works on certain stains and marks, but needs careful testing with a tiny amount on an area that is not going to be seen. It may dissolve some types of lacquer. Denatured alcohol works on some stains, but again it also dissolves some finishes, likewise acetone, isopropanol, and other organic solvents.   As has been stated, any action runs the risk of further damage. Even tap water, depending on the mineral content, may leave annoyingly obvious marks when it dries. Less is often more, so work on small areas at a time, use good magnification so you can see the results of your actions close up,  and if you get the slightest hint that the varnish is lifting, or the finish is being damaged, stop before you ruin the whole thing.
    • JDM,   No, does no more pay. VWatchie, no personal experience, that type is a newer one. But it has the Indian look. Frank
    • Yes it should be a tapered screw, it forces the hammer arms apart or lets them come closer together. They are often really tight. Put some oil around the perimeter of the head and coax it in both directions. A little turning usually makes a big adjustment, careful! You may not need to adjust it though, do you have clearance with the minute cam? Also, the jumper spring that brings the hammer in contact with the cams doesn't generally have a lot of power. It needs to be greased and reliably coming into contact with the cams. The hammer faces will need a light coat of grease where they contact the heart cams.
    • With a ring inside the crystal this is an armed tension type. The Sternnkreuz 'G22' catalogue covers these which you can download at http://www.sternkreuz.de/accordion/assets/Sternkreuz_Gesamtkatalog G22.pdf Whilst for the Sternkreuz 'ST'' range Roamer does have some specific citations (p25), for the 'ATC' range you need none are mentioned. Almost certainly therefore you'll be fine with a standard ATC crystal that meets your measurements. The usual advice is to go 0.1 larger than the outside diameter measurement you've taken. This means when you release the crystal, after it has been gently 'squeezed' in the claw removal/fitting tool, it makes a nice tight fit. Since you're using Cousins your best bet is going to therefore be https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/standard-chrome-ringed-glass-atc# and the 30.7mm size.    
    • Is not that difficult really. As Matabog noted, dies threaded M6 are standard. The nice expensive set have their Dia. specified, the Chinese write Rolex just to indicate quality, but we know that true Rolex-specific dies are for the screw-on case-backs ...that's another story. Then on AliX search  "watchmaker dies", 20 pieces nylon are like$8, aluminium quite a bit more. I personally choose based on shipping times, things have improved but China post is still very slow, HK, NL post are OK, 7-10 days. 
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