Jump to content

Vostok kommandirskie previously owned by he-man


Paumanok

Recommended Posts

So I enjoy fixing up these Vostoks, simple and durable and fun to look at.

 

I got one for cheap and I noticed something odd. If you're familiar with the Amphibia and some Kommandirskie versions, you'll know about the screw off crown. This one seemed to pull straight out, weird. Upon further inspection, it seems that it's not the intended design...

 

I tried lightly holding onto the inner screw part with a pair of pliers and trying to loosen the crown. No luck. I also don't want to damage what looks like a brass insert. Any tips on penetrating oil and how I could get a good grip without distruction?

 

Also, if I can get them apart, I assume this piece was pressed in and waterproof status is out of the window, but maybe it can still sorta work as intended.IMG_20190213_172126.jpegIMG_20190213_172131.jpeg

 

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hm, heat didn't seem to help much. From some research, some galvanic corrosion can take place on the crown screw. I'm thinking it might be toast and I need to find a new case. At least the movement and dial are in good shape. It also seems to be a tiny bit cross threaded as well. Maybe I can find a decent enough parts case.

Edited by Paumanok
Forgot to mention a detail
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Meranom .you can get a brand new stem and threaded collar from them. Provided it is a 24xx movement.
I was checking that out, it seems they only sell the parts under the Amphibia classic. I'm worried about possible fitment variations case to case. It seems to be either a 2414 or a 2434 as it seems to have a counter rotation hacking.

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are right the parts listing is very limited under the komandirskie listings . However if you go back to the amphibia parts listing under crowns you will see two that should work ,one yellow and one silver metal for the komandirskie case The threaded tube is listed under amphibia spare parts.It is listed as being for amphibia cases. I am pretty sure it will work.I cannot say for sure as I have not used one. I can however tell you this,  I have a komandirskie case , and I have an amphibia crown. and the crown screws right into the case The only reason why it does not work is that the stem is too long . a proper length stem and an amphibia tube should work. I cannot guarantee that it WILL work, but given the cost of the parts I would give it a shot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are right the parts listing is very limited under the komandirskie listings . However if you go back to the amphibia parts listing under crowns you will see two that should work ,one yellow and one silver metal for the komandirskie case The threaded tube is listed under amphibia spare parts.It is listed as being for amphibia cases. I am pretty sure it will work.I cannot say for sure as I have not used one. I can however tell you this,  I have a komandirskie case , and I have an amphibia crown. and the crown screws right into the case The only reason why it does not work is that the stem is too long . a proper length stem and an amphibia tube should work. I cannot guarantee that it WILL work, but given the cost of the parts I would give it a shot.
That's what I was worried about, slight differences in the two cases. I don't have the tools right now to shorten a stem and refit to the crown, maybe I can get the old stem out of the broken crown.

Is meranom trustworthy with credit cards and the like? It looks pretty legit.

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have purchased from meranom , and I didn't get robbed. As far as shortening vostok stems of this type, It is not practical to do.They have a clutch in them  that allows you to screw the crown down. It's done at the factory ,all pressed together and about impossible to take apart.You really need to buy the correct stem  from the gitgo. while the business end that engages the keyless works on all 24xx vostoks is the same  and the threads on  the case end like wise. the shafts differ in length depending on the case. while there may be some slight differences is case lots , from what I have observed parts interchange on vostoks is very good . they have kept the same dimensions for years.unless your watch has a 22xx movement in it I would think this would just be a matter of assembly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, Paumanok said:

Hm, heat didn't seem to help much. From some research, some galvanic corrosion can take place on the crown screw. I'm thinking it might be toast and I need to find a new case. At least the movement and dial are in good shape. It also seems to be a tiny bit cross threaded as well. Maybe I can find a decent enough parts case.

Did you tried 3 in 1 oil ?

If you can get the tube from the crown you could try to press it again in the case, put some silver solder paste with a syringue between the tube and case and heat with a gas soldering pen

264480681_3in1.thumb.jpg.9240e0a3fe1118f074db5e4bc46f79be.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you tried 3 in 1 oil ?
If you can get the tube from the crown you could try to press it again in the case, put some silver solder paste with a syringue between the tube and case and heat with a gas soldering pen
264480681_3in1.thumb.jpg.9240e0a3fe1118f074db5e4bc46f79be.jpg
 
 
I could try the oil. The hardest part will be gripping the tube without damaging it further

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I could try the oil. The hardest part will be gripping the tube without damaging it further

 

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

 

Tack some 320 grade inside tweezer's with double-tape and grip the tube with it ...

It could work and risk of damage is really low.

Or use a pin-vice if you have one

 

Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any type of penetrating oil. I use liquid wrench, not because it is anything super special. They just happen to be located here in my home state of North Carolina.Galvanic corrosion can occur any time two dissimilar metals touch. One becomes the cathode, the other the Anode. A minute electrical electrical current occurs.The previous own Mr Hemanov did the watch no favors !

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf
    • Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
    • Have read of the Tech Sheet attached on the balance section page 12. It may be bent but until you reposition it back in the regulator pins you'll never know. Cheers CJ 4R35B_4R36A.pdf
    • Aloha All, My Seiko 4R35B movement stopped working today. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the balance spring came out of the regulator pin. This is my first time working on a balance. Any advice on how to get this spring repositioned (back to normal)? I'm pretty sure that while adjusting the beat error on this movement, I must have turned the stud (I didn't even know they turned), and the spring eventually fell out.  Will the spring go back to even spacing when it's back in the pin, or does it look bent? Thanks, Frank  
×
×
  • Create New...