Jump to content

Need Help Fitting a stem

saswatch88

By saswatch88
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

saswatch88 WRT Addict

saswatch88

Posted
Posted

hello WRT,

I have a vintage ww1 trench watch. It is a doctor/nurse watch with center seconds. These types were very rare during this period and i believe only two manufacturers produced the movements. I believe the one i have is a Gallet have no clue the caliber since i cant find any info on these movements. the watch did not come with a stem and crown. I have 4 different stems that fit into the watch perfectly both in size and length. but none of the slots for the setting lever pin line up therefore stem can always be pulled out and wont set the time. not sure what the square part of the stem is actuall called but it seems like its too long and the end closest to the crown which has the lip that seats against the winding pinion is too far out. These stems came from other trench watches of the same ligne size but not the same movement. I have tons of bestfit swiss stem  assortments and they are all the same with the square winding part being too long for the setting lever pin. The chances of me finding a parts movement are slim to none so does anyone have suggestions on how to fit a new one. i tried machines some of them but it just doesnt work. i dont have a lathe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

Hi, check my post in thread by AdamC titled " Omega stem shaft pivot hole problem" 

Using a pair of old tweezers, stem vice  and a bit of sand paper as lathe for OD reduction on the winding stem.

The square  corners can be filed some, to facilitate rotation.

You can turn manually or by electric dremel.

If you like the approach, Please feel free to msg me via forum for furthure discussion.

Regards joe

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

In wind position, set lever is to come to rest just next to wind pinion but NOT TOUCH it,  if in contact the two will grind when winding, so I think the length you marked  as TOO BIG is to be shortened by aprox 3/10 mm or so.

While grinding the square,  I would choose a equip set up that minimizes free hand operation as much as possible you are mimicing a lathe. Home made lathe.:lol:  .

As you get to the final stages of reduction, using the same old worn out fine sandpaper gives a better finsh. 

Finally the end of the stem is to be cut and its tip rounded.

Best wishes 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • TheQuietMan
      Help please.

      By TheQuietMan · Posted

      Ok thanks Ross, I will give that a try!😁
    • rossjackson01
      Intro

      By rossjackson01 · Posted

      Welcome my friend. 
    • rossjackson01
      Help please.

      By rossjackson01 · Posted

      Been there. Worn that Tshirt.  'ping'. Hands and knees. Nothing. Nada. 20 minutes? Ha! I found it 7 month later. How? Well, after advice from a member, I invested in a £4 UV light torch.  Hands and knees looking for a 'ping' from a Sekonda, found them both within 30 seconds. UV makes the jewel shine. easy peasy. Could have taken longer. Just lucky on the location of the search. Hope this helps.
    • Rixy
      Broken lug

      By Rixy · Posted

      Thanks Dell. I thought about silver soldering. Have never done it but would like to give it a go. Do you think to put flux on the butted joint then run the solder in or to maybe brace it with a piece of scrap spring steel?
    • rossjackson01
      Without Our Forum

      By rossjackson01 · Posted

      Never and others. Yes, like you I do spend a fair amount of time reading the contents of this forum. I find it better that any other. Clear, lucid, no Prima Donas, and most of all an easy access without adverts. All thanks to Mark. God bless you mate. You give so much to many of us. What if? No Mark? Hypothetically. A forum. I did run a forum for a few years. Really enjoyed it, but became so engrossed that it did affect my health. I gave to to others to run. Not been back. It was very successful and rivalled a number of large paying sites. No adverts, no others but me. I did ask and listen to members comments and it worked well.    Costs Having a domain name, £10 annually.  Register the site with a forum company, free. Build the site using the forum company guide lines, free. It looked and ran almost the same a Mark's. All the same facilities. The cost was only £5 per month, but counted visits (views). If I recall, it was that price for 5,000 views. Each extra 5,000 views increased the price by £2 per month. Success was my own personal undoing. From £5 per month initially, it rose to £60 a month and looked like increasing. This was 10 years ago. I could not afford that, and asked it anyone would like to take over and someone did. I would assume that this is the price that Mark is funding for us all. His return is our continued comments on the internet about his course, and the fact that many of the big names on YouTube mention him as their Tutor. Those of us who have done, and are still using, his course, benefit. In comparison to other courses, I can't believe how cheap it is, and the value is exceptional. It is the structure that gives the value. Long may Mark reign. Ross  
×
×
  • Create New...