Jump to content

Omega 342

arkobugg

By arkobugg
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

arkobugg WRT Addict

arkobugg

Posted
Posted

Hello mates!

This weekend I'm struggling with this bumper moment. But is not going steady, but stops and go.... So I found out that the balance wheel is touching the third wheel. This is a new issue for me... 

See photo, the red ring is where the intervention is ..

Wounder where to start?  Doing what?

rød ring.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
WatchMaker Super WRT Addict

WatchMaker

Posted
Posted

Tolerances shouldn't be that tight between centre wheel and balance: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BxvHLW2evM !  ;)

I'd start with the centre wheel and check there's no damage to the pinion and that the wheel itself sits squarely i.e. does not have a small deformity in it which means it does not then run truly horizontally. After this check that the wheel can be seated cleanly as per https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/media?image=IMG_9744.JPG&email=&wat_id=680 (click on the image to get a close-up). Since you will have had to remove pallet fork and balance to do this it's worth double checking a true running by looking at the centre wheel while the train rotates and that everything looks okay.

If that all checks out then ensure there is no foreign object that has somehow gotten under the balance cock and that the balance can subsequently be seated properly with the balance cock fully screwed down. 

Any joy? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

Photo is blurry. The outer most HS strand appears to have run over the regulator arm.

Clear pic please. 

Wobling third wheel is fixable rather easily. The case of wobling BW is a bit more invloved. Will go step by step and carefully.

Staff and arbor end shakes, if too much.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
arkobugg WRT Addict

arkobugg

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hello thanks to both Watchmaker and Nucejoe!!

I will try to check the issues you pointed out Watcmaker. And to you Nucejoe, its just an illusion the outer most HS strand have not run over the regulator arm. I will check out the third wheel first...  Good Sunday to ya all  !!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

" Stops and go"   Just a reminder, Wobble of the BW when runing is obseravble from side view. If it wobbles and you have no access to truing caliper I can  post pix showing how to level the BW inside the movement. 

If the ballance is hurt, Omega poise is lost.

Third wheel is no big deal. Should just exercise caution not to hurt a tooth or knock the wheel loose on arbor.

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
arkobugg WRT Addict

arkobugg

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Last update her mates!!

Got it up and running, but I need to adjust the BE, and this balance wheel have this screws to adjust. And I have never done this before..

Is it somebody that explain, if I adjust the speed first and the the BE, or the BE and the the speed, or both and the same time??

And how to operate witch screw first, and what order?

 

52948751_544451882717217_1915109278583095296_n.jpg

53142785_832055363797377_899121411660972032_n.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Delgetti WRT Addict

Delgetti

Posted
Posted

I would correct the beat error first. Mark shows this here (4:00):

 

 

Watchmakers often mark the correct position. So here I would try and turn the collet a bit anti clockwise until the stud lines up with the mark on the ring and then do another check on the timegrapher.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • watchweasol
      Chronograph Pusher Rod for EB8371-67 Snapped and Stuck in Button. Can't Unscrew.

      By watchweasol · Posted

      Hi. Yes I get it , the slot in the end I’d to allow you to screw the button on whilst holding the pusher shaft. To remove the pusher tube you will need a tool such as the one shown by Richard. I think Ali Express the Chinese Amazon has replicas of the Horotec system for a lot less money, how effective they are not having had to use one. But as you said the way to go is complete removal and replacement, bodging it up will  lead to a repeat failure
    • JohnR725
      Notifications

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      It does look like it seems to be working again I'm getting emails.
    • JohnR725
      30T2 adjustment of timing washers

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      One of the things that I've been bothered with lately is timekeeping? For instance a 90-year-old pocket watch what so to timekeeping was it supposed to keep? They publish railroad timekeeping but I don't know how well normal non-railroad watches were supposed to keep time. The reason why the question comes up for me is I spend a lot of time at work adjusting watches to keep really really good time  because I have to please my boss where as when the watch was made I have to wonder what kind timekeeping would've been acceptable. After all they typically didn't have timing machines 100 years ago and they were timing and six positions certainly not for the non-railroad grade watch. On the other hand I do get paid by the hour so maybe I shouldn't be concerned of how much time I Spend trying to make everything keep chronometer timekeeping almost. Citing a Delta of 40 seconds for a 90-year-old watch is quite outstanding.
    • JohnR725
      Is this pallet fork over-locking?

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      That's an interesting question which I don't think I've seen explained anywhere. But I think the problem will go away just about instantaneously. In other words the  coating is really thin and it should go away almost immediately. So the problem should resolve itself extremely fast.  
    • VWatchie
      Is this pallet fork over-locking?

      By VWatchie · Posted

      I experienced that different types of shellac and their ages are affected differently by IPA. Sometimes the shellac dissolves in a few seconds and sometimes several minutes are required. Nowadays I never let shellac come into contact with IPA. It's a hotly debated topic here on WRT if you search. Like John, I don't think you need to worry about the weight of the shellac, but instead that it might start rubbing against something. When I learned how to adjust pallet stones, I tried documenting my experiences in this thread. Hopefully, it can help you. I personally don't believe in the idea of abrading the epilame before oiling so I don't think you need to think or worry about it. The only time I've heard anyone mention this is Alex on the YouTube channel Watch Repair Tutorials but actually no one else. I'm not saying it's "wrong" just that I don't think it's necessary or adds anything.
×
×
  • Create New...