I agree, I am definitely missing having an amplitude reading. I can use my eyes for now to get a very rough estimate on that. Note the beat error from the APP is actually daily rate error and the actual beat error can be seen by two parallel lines showing on the trace that merge into one when the beat error is minimised. It will do for me until Christmas Then I can enjoy going through my watch collection again and attend to anything that is a bit off the mark. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
These CAL400 movements can make Andy's 404 club. So you can replace both the main plate and the train wheel plate from a donor movement or you just put the movement into your junk pile, and reuse its parts if there is a need. I like the idea to rebush or jewel these pivot holes, i have many of these movements and I bought them because I like them and because its a cheap way to practice without worrying too much that you destroy a movement. Even though they are cheap I have a bad dream when i do something irreversible and irreversibly bad to any movement. Once OldHippy told us that they used to bring Timexes out and destroyed them with a hammer. I must try that out at some point as a brain therapy.
So what is easier, re-bushing or jeweling? And what tools are required?
Be aware that if you go down on the jeweling path you also need to work on the dial as it currently says 5 jewels.
You really want more than that. Amplitude and patter regularity are the first and foremost data needed. If you want to start learning now I'd say than a model 1000 today is better than a 1900 tomorrow.
I use an app on my android phone using the built in mic. Weishi 1900 is on my Christmas wish list. Single line trace shows that the beat error is minimal. Steve Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk