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Junghans ATO-MAT (~1960???) stopped working


mcc

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Hi,

this is the "family kitchen clock": This clock is at least as old as I am.
It has a W-707 movement...an ATO-MAT, which is
kinda "pre quartz"-movement: A rotor like a BIG balance wheel is equipped with four magnets.
The first two magnets induce a voltage into a pair of coils, which in turn switches a current,
which flows through a second pair of coils, which then pulls the second pair of magnets. Since
the second pair sits a little further away on the circumference of the "balance wheel", that
wheel gets a kick, and the circle starts at the beginning again.

After 55 years of measuring the time, the ATO-MAT suddenly stops working. I checked the obvious things
like corroded battery contacts, loose cables, emtpy batteries etc but found nothing. Since this clock is there
since I am able to think I definitely want to repair it. And it would be my first clock/watch, which I try
to repair.

But before I unscrew anything...what is most likely the problem? Is there anything known
like "the typical ATO-MAT problem" or "any germanium transistor will die after 50 years" or something
like that?

I found some schematics of similiar ATO-MATs (not the W-707), which were not THAT complicated.

If it is the transistor it will be hard to find a germanium transistor these days I think...

Short description of the problem: Insert a battery, switch the starter (which is a little piece of metal, which
gives the "balance wheel" its first kick)...the "balance wheel" swings a little (looks not like it would be slowed down
by any abnormal friction or so) but the amplitude decreases rapidly until it stops.

Thanks a lot for any help in advance!

Cheers!
mcc

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Hi     As a rule its usually the transistor not switching on the ATO there are equivilant tables to find an alternative NPN or PNP what ever type is installed in your clock have a look on google, just type in your transistor and get a list.  The transistor you find will have a different case type so may be require modding to fit....  good luck 

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Hi Mcc   Just googled ATO-MAT W-707 and pulled up a load of info on the 707. I have up loaded a tear down on the 707 also Think the tranny is a AC125 germainiun  PNP it will probably be an old style plastic case.   Just a thought check the driving coil for being o/c, dry joints etc.       enyoy

atomat-11.jpg

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atomat-12.jpg

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atomat-14.jpg

atomat-15.jpg

atomat-16.jpg

noavatar92.7b2fde640943965cc88df0cdee365907.png

noavatar92.png

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Hi,

Thanks a lot for all the infos! :)

I have googled before...and found quite an amount of "stuff". The problem with google and the interne is: Neither is a watchmaker or watch repair enthusiast. For example: I searched for informations about the 7S26C movement of my SEIKO 5 wrist watch. And found (for example) the following contraductionous (huuuu....this word looks horrible wrong...) informations: NEVER touch the movement with bare hands and a video in which exactly this has been done. NEVER touch _BOTH_ of the pins, which adjust/regulate the hairspring and another video, which says: that one regulates the length and the other one adjust the idle position of the balance wheel and both can be corrected of course. And the whole variations of "the right oil" to lubricate the movement. And....
You get the idea.

That's the reason for me to come to the place -- this forum -- , where the density as the chance to meet people, who DEFINETLY know, what they are talking about, and repeat the question here... :)

By the way: It seems the my W-707 runs (or better: does not run....hehehe) with a AC122. But I have to confirm this later....with a stronger light and a better lens ;) I will check the coils also...thanks for all the hints and infos!!!

My W-707 has a plastic gear.

Thank you all again! :) :) :)

Cheers!
mcc

 

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    • Just a note for those who come searching for information on this topic in the future.  I did eventually find the Mark's video on how to replace these springs, as someone observed, he does in fact make the replacement look easy.  (It actually is relatively easy once you have the knack of it.) If you're enrolled in one of Mark's online courses, the demonstration of how to replace this spring is in the Bonus Videos section of his course site, and is called "C2B1 – Sea-Gull Style Shock Springs".
    • If the metal was twice as thick, it wouldn't snap so easily.  The thickness is governed by the space available so you can't use thicker metal.  If you glued two pieces together, the likelihood of snapping would be reduced.  That's my theory anyway, could be wrong. 
    • there are various approaches to learning watch repair. A lot of people want to jump right in and every single watches something to be repaired restored. But other times like this it's disposable it's here for you to learn and when you're through learning you throw it away. yes you definitely should try this you have a learning movement you need to learn and the best way to learn is by doing something.
    • Sorry, the friction will be so great that the wheel will barely turn, if the movement will start at all, the amplitude will be verry lo.
    • If I can’t re-pivot the wheel, the logical thing to do is to descend the pivot hole.  Plan is to either stick a suitably sized hole jewel (from a barrel bridge or something) or fashion a blob of epoxy on the underside of the escape wheel cock so the wheel sits on its one pivot on the base plate and the staff with the broken off pivot (which I’ll polish as best as I can) becomes the upper pivot. As long as it doesn’t foul the 4th wheel it should work? I know it’s a bodge job, and if this were a rare movement, or belonged to someone else I would not do this. I’m just interested to see if I can get the thing to run. 
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