Jump to content

Junghans ATO-MAT (~1960???) stopped working


mcc

Recommended Posts

Hi,

this is the "family kitchen clock": This clock is at least as old as I am.
It has a W-707 movement...an ATO-MAT, which is
kinda "pre quartz"-movement: A rotor like a BIG balance wheel is equipped with four magnets.
The first two magnets induce a voltage into a pair of coils, which in turn switches a current,
which flows through a second pair of coils, which then pulls the second pair of magnets. Since
the second pair sits a little further away on the circumference of the "balance wheel", that
wheel gets a kick, and the circle starts at the beginning again.

After 55 years of measuring the time, the ATO-MAT suddenly stops working. I checked the obvious things
like corroded battery contacts, loose cables, emtpy batteries etc but found nothing. Since this clock is there
since I am able to think I definitely want to repair it. And it would be my first clock/watch, which I try
to repair.

But before I unscrew anything...what is most likely the problem? Is there anything known
like "the typical ATO-MAT problem" or "any germanium transistor will die after 50 years" or something
like that?

I found some schematics of similiar ATO-MATs (not the W-707), which were not THAT complicated.

If it is the transistor it will be hard to find a germanium transistor these days I think...

Short description of the problem: Insert a battery, switch the starter (which is a little piece of metal, which
gives the "balance wheel" its first kick)...the "balance wheel" swings a little (looks not like it would be slowed down
by any abnormal friction or so) but the amplitude decreases rapidly until it stops.

Thanks a lot for any help in advance!

Cheers!
mcc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi     As a rule its usually the transistor not switching on the ATO there are equivilant tables to find an alternative NPN or PNP what ever type is installed in your clock have a look on google, just type in your transistor and get a list.  The transistor you find will have a different case type so may be require modding to fit....  good luck 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mcc   Just googled ATO-MAT W-707 and pulled up a load of info on the 707. I have up loaded a tear down on the 707 also Think the tranny is a AC125 germainiun  PNP it will probably be an old style plastic case.   Just a thought check the driving coil for being o/c, dry joints etc.       enyoy

atomat-11.jpg

atomat-09.jpg

atomat-10.jpg

atomat-08.jpg

atomat-01.jpg

atomat-02.jpg

atomat-03.jpg

atomat-04.jpg

atomat-05.jpg

atomat-06.jpg

atomat-07.jpg

atomat-12.jpg

atomat-13.jpg

atomat-14.jpg

atomat-15.jpg

atomat-16.jpg

noavatar92.7b2fde640943965cc88df0cdee365907.png

noavatar92.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

Thanks a lot for all the infos! :)

I have googled before...and found quite an amount of "stuff". The problem with google and the interne is: Neither is a watchmaker or watch repair enthusiast. For example: I searched for informations about the 7S26C movement of my SEIKO 5 wrist watch. And found (for example) the following contraductionous (huuuu....this word looks horrible wrong...) informations: NEVER touch the movement with bare hands and a video in which exactly this has been done. NEVER touch _BOTH_ of the pins, which adjust/regulate the hairspring and another video, which says: that one regulates the length and the other one adjust the idle position of the balance wheel and both can be corrected of course. And the whole variations of "the right oil" to lubricate the movement. And....
You get the idea.

That's the reason for me to come to the place -- this forum -- , where the density as the chance to meet people, who DEFINETLY know, what they are talking about, and repeat the question here... :)

By the way: It seems the my W-707 runs (or better: does not run....hehehe) with a AC122. But I have to confirm this later....with a stronger light and a better lens ;) I will check the coils also...thanks for all the hints and infos!!!

My W-707 has a plastic gear.

Thank you all again! :) :) :)

Cheers!
mcc

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...