Jump to content

Junghans ATO-MAT (~1960???) stopped working


mcc

Recommended Posts

Hi,

this is the "family kitchen clock": This clock is at least as old as I am.
It has a W-707 movement...an ATO-MAT, which is
kinda "pre quartz"-movement: A rotor like a BIG balance wheel is equipped with four magnets.
The first two magnets induce a voltage into a pair of coils, which in turn switches a current,
which flows through a second pair of coils, which then pulls the second pair of magnets. Since
the second pair sits a little further away on the circumference of the "balance wheel", that
wheel gets a kick, and the circle starts at the beginning again.

After 55 years of measuring the time, the ATO-MAT suddenly stops working. I checked the obvious things
like corroded battery contacts, loose cables, emtpy batteries etc but found nothing. Since this clock is there
since I am able to think I definitely want to repair it. And it would be my first clock/watch, which I try
to repair.

But before I unscrew anything...what is most likely the problem? Is there anything known
like "the typical ATO-MAT problem" or "any germanium transistor will die after 50 years" or something
like that?

I found some schematics of similiar ATO-MATs (not the W-707), which were not THAT complicated.

If it is the transistor it will be hard to find a germanium transistor these days I think...

Short description of the problem: Insert a battery, switch the starter (which is a little piece of metal, which
gives the "balance wheel" its first kick)...the "balance wheel" swings a little (looks not like it would be slowed down
by any abnormal friction or so) but the amplitude decreases rapidly until it stops.

Thanks a lot for any help in advance!

Cheers!
mcc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi     As a rule its usually the transistor not switching on the ATO there are equivilant tables to find an alternative NPN or PNP what ever type is installed in your clock have a look on google, just type in your transistor and get a list.  The transistor you find will have a different case type so may be require modding to fit....  good luck 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mcc   Just googled ATO-MAT W-707 and pulled up a load of info on the 707. I have up loaded a tear down on the 707 also Think the tranny is a AC125 germainiun  PNP it will probably be an old style plastic case.   Just a thought check the driving coil for being o/c, dry joints etc.       enyoy

atomat-11.jpg

atomat-09.jpg

atomat-10.jpg

atomat-08.jpg

atomat-01.jpg

atomat-02.jpg

atomat-03.jpg

atomat-04.jpg

atomat-05.jpg

atomat-06.jpg

atomat-07.jpg

atomat-12.jpg

atomat-13.jpg

atomat-14.jpg

atomat-15.jpg

atomat-16.jpg

noavatar92.7b2fde640943965cc88df0cdee365907.png

noavatar92.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

Thanks a lot for all the infos! :)

I have googled before...and found quite an amount of "stuff". The problem with google and the interne is: Neither is a watchmaker or watch repair enthusiast. For example: I searched for informations about the 7S26C movement of my SEIKO 5 wrist watch. And found (for example) the following contraductionous (huuuu....this word looks horrible wrong...) informations: NEVER touch the movement with bare hands and a video in which exactly this has been done. NEVER touch _BOTH_ of the pins, which adjust/regulate the hairspring and another video, which says: that one regulates the length and the other one adjust the idle position of the balance wheel and both can be corrected of course. And the whole variations of "the right oil" to lubricate the movement. And....
You get the idea.

That's the reason for me to come to the place -- this forum -- , where the density as the chance to meet people, who DEFINETLY know, what they are talking about, and repeat the question here... :)

By the way: It seems the my W-707 runs (or better: does not run....hehehe) with a AC122. But I have to confirm this later....with a stronger light and a better lens ;) I will check the coils also...thanks for all the hints and infos!!!

My W-707 has a plastic gear.

Thank you all again! :) :) :)

Cheers!
mcc

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • just one little minor reminder here this isn't your normal balance wheel.  pages 17 and 18 are what you really want to be looking at. normally studs don't turn but this watch has the etachron system designed for lots of adjustment. Personally I would try to rotate the stud back to where it's supposed to be. If you're lucky you didn't actually bend it at the stud it just looks really bad as the stud has been rotated grossly out of position.. I think things will look a lot better if you put the hairspring back where it's supposed to be by rotating the stud. it's hard to tell if you actually did bend it at the stud or not we won't know until you rotate the stud back more or less where it's supposed to be. Then you want to pay attention to the manual of how to put the hairspring back in the regulator pins because yes they rotate also and they rotated specific directions otherwise bad things will happen to your hairspring. so initially you can open up the regulator as wide as it can go and don't worry about closing it until thing everything is right then you can close them a little bit
    • I need to see photos of the whole movement before I comment. 
    • Hi @Jon, so, from one extreme to another the beat error is 0.1(min.pos) to 0.2(msx.pos), and as you mentioned the rate does up and down dramatically. Also checked the position of the collet, and the collet is not central to the jewel on the balance cock. Balance moves freely, per my understanding.   So, after 24h the ampl. fell down by approx 20 deg, which I would assume is expected. After adjusting the endshake I believe I gained around +10 deg. of balance movement. Which is great, and overall the balance is not at 220'ish deg.   What I did next, some might think is non-orthodox, but was wort a try. I too the mainspring out, checked again for endshake and if the pin moves freely, and cleaned everything. Usually when installing the mainspring I would use some barrel grease on the barrel walls, install the spring and put a 2-3 drops of D-5 oil on top of the wounded spring and in the places where the arbor sits. This time I took the spring and applied a ultra this coat of Molykote Dx paste on the whole spring, before installing it in to the barrel, and added some oil to the arbor as usual.  The result improved, at a full wound the balance produces about 230-237 deg. @JohnR725 I'm getting closer to 300 😃   What I am noticing, there is a fluctuation in amplitude. With time it would rise and drop about total 8-10 deg in an interval about 2 minutes. I assumed this ruled out the power transfer from the barrel itself. So I took the gear train out, cleaned and lubed. 
    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf However, I'm wondering how often you could use this feature, adding the dial usually increases the OD of the movement, so you would need a new (larger) adapter ring tuned to the OD of the dial and I wouldn't like to grip the dial in any kind of movement holder if It could be avoided for fear of damaging it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you?
×
×
  • Create New...