L&R Cleaning Machines

[jnash]

That's what I believe is part of the issue, can I ask where you get it from , I'm assuming algo will have some ?

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[clockboy]

I purchased my one from a clock repairer in Staffordshire then I had it fully refurbished by Graham Baxter (http://www.delphelectronics.co.uk). HOWEVER he no longer re-furbs them as there is not enough demand or profit. He still  produces watch timing software. I now use a cheap Indian cleaning machine (JANTA) which is a copy of a Elma which gives me excellent results. 

PS is you enter L&R or Varimatic in the search box on this site there is lots to be found on this machine.

JANTA

[jnash]

So my main issue is obtaining the fluid , any idea where I can obtain some ?

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[oldhippy]

The link I posted has the fluid listed.

Hydraulic Fluid (Bottle)

11037

[jnash]

The link I posted has the fluid listed.

Hydraulic Fluid (Bottle)

11037

Sadly algondo not have

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[oldhippy]

I have found this site for you. You could phone them direct there detail are listed below.

http://stsupplyonline.com/catalog/hydraulic-fluid-p-14250.html

 

L & R Manufacturing Co.

577 Elm St., P.O. Box 607

Kearny, NJ 07032

 

Phone: 201-991-5330, 800-572-5326 (toll free)

Fax: 201-991-5870

[clockboy]

I purchased from Walsh but they no longer supply. However I was told just tractor hydraulic oil works just as well. 

[jnash]

I've actually got quite far, have managed to get hydraulics sorted and the synchronisation.

On to the ultrasonics.

Now the ultrasonics light did not come on, the fan kicks in so the switch is working that starts the ultrasonics.

The bulb light up for a few seconds and died.

I have found a replacement and am waiting for it. However the dial control looks to not being doing anything at all.

Does some one have a pic of the underneath with that bit in particular. I want to make sure nothing is missing as I do not see how it would do anything as it looks like a loose switch ( bit at the front)

Thanks in advance



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[clockboy]

This might help:

l&r.pdf

[jnash]

Thanks clockboy , I do have this document , just need some detailed pictures to see if there is a part omissions in the front switch as I don't understand what it actually does!

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[clockboy]

I was told by the guy who re-furbed my L&R that the original wiring is suspect with NO earth. So he re-wired it, I do not understand electrics so I just took he word for it. What I do know is when it is up and running it is a great machine and cleaning a watch is almost a pleasure. 

[rodabod]

Is that big glass bottle a valve rectifier?

[AndyHull]

Quote

Is that big glass bottle a valve rectifier?

It is a single valve  oscillator. I would have suggest high voltage leakage testing and if necessary replacing any capacitors before you even attempt to power it up (but I'm too late I believe).

 

.. and of course be careful around the ultrasonic circuit, those are pretty high voltages.

The light bulb is quite probably an active part of the circuit.

Edited February 28, 2019 by AndyHull

[jnash]

Yep replaced valve, then capacitor s blew

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[AndyHull]

3kV capacitors too, so replace with something at least 3kV rated. Check that bulb too, it may be being used as a soft start  current limiter.

Edited February 28, 2019 by AndyHull

[jnash]

Fixed the rest I'll use that and be in the lookout for a ultrasonic add-on

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[AndyHull]

Check the interlock switch too, it may simply be that it needs cleaning and those capacitors are long past their best. The circuit looks pretty simple, so it should be possible to fix it.

 

[jnash]

ultrasonics Binned now!! Respomses bit too late but thank you!!

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[AndyHull]

4 minutes ago, jnash said:

Yep replaced valve, then capacitor s blew

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The dodgy capacitors are the reason the original valve blew.

When fixing old valve gear, always start with a test and replace of capacitors.

Resistors rarely go badly out of spec, and when they do, they generally increase in value, but capacitors are far more likely to be leaky, or wildly out of spec. and that introduces DC in places where only AC should go.

[AndyHull]

OK Did you bin the whole ultrasonic unit? I suspect any replacement, if of similar vintage, may suffer from the same trouble, so fixing the original may be a simpler, safer bet. The transducer is probably darned near bomb proof, but the capacitors are pretty fragile.

[jnash]

Yep

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[AndyHull]

If you do attempt fix, you might like to know...

Those capacitors are shown as mmf, which is a bit archaic , however 0.0047uF == 4.7nF == 4700mmfd / (pF) 3KV

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=3kv+4.7nf&_sacat=0

 

Edited February 28, 2019 by AndyHull

[rodabod]

1450V on the secondary..... F* that!

[AndyHull]

1 hour ago, rodabod said:

1450V on the secondary..... F* that!

I wouldn't recommend that, nor indeed licking it. However since you don't actually need to touch it when it is switched on, you should remain completely unf*d.

Observe some simple precautions and you should be perfectly safe. Its a bit like crossing the road. You shouldn't do that with your eyes shut, and neither should you work on high voltage with the power on. 

Keep your left hand in your pocket if you decide to prod things with anything remotely conductive, that way if you do get a tingle, it doesn't go through anything vital (like your heart).

The circuit is relatively safe in the sense that you can see all the bits that will bite you. Its not like working on large switch mode power supplies, X-ray equipment or colour CRTs, which can be pretty angry, even several hours after being switched off.

You might like this Youtube channel. He is old school like me, and works on tube equipment and CRTs. He is a little more blase about touching stuff that I would be paranoid about. He does work with an isolation transformer however, which I would recommend if you are planning on doing much work with anything over about 50V.
 

BTW Colour TVs work on up to 30kV plus. Even monochrome CRTs use several kV

X-ray tubes go even higher. The xenon flash tube in a small compact camera can blat you with a couple of kV if you are not careful. Don't ask me why I know.

Edited February 28, 2019 by AndyHull

[clockboy]

I have been following this post with interest as I have a varimatic which at present is in garage waiting a fix. The guy who originally re-furbished the machine said the original wiring was poor and dangerous. When I purchased the machine it worked for a while then it caught alight and blew the house fuse.  If I remember correctly the original wiring circuit was was not earthed.