Jump to content

Strange hand issue


Stevelp

Recommended Posts

Hello again everyone!  So I’ve just completed repairing a Hamilton 36000 Chronospeed (many broken screws, missing parts) that I found in a parts box.  The watch now runs wonderfully but has developed a strange habit with the hands.  The watch did not run when I found it so I’m unsure if it had this issue previously.  When the watch gets to 10:19 AM and PM the hour and minute hand stop there but the second hand continues on.  If I advance the hands a few minutes things resume and are good until 12 hours later.  To eliminate the possibility of the hands touching I installed the hour and minute hands each by themselves but they each stop at their respective places.  When setting the time, it almost feels a little to effortless to move the hands with the crown, could this at all be related?  I can figure out the basics when it comes to wristwatches but this is a little beyond my knowledge at this point.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated!  The photo below is of the finished product.

C65DAB2A-F4C8-472B-9594-2556C1C088D7.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would guess that there is a flaw in one of the gear train gears that correlates to that time that is causing it to get hung up. but that's just a guess, and I'm still a noob around this stuff. I'm imagining a slightly bent tooth that grabs on a plate or something.

As an aside, that is a super cool watch, I hope you get it going 100%. Any interest in selling it if you do? I love old Hammies. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Steve  Nice watch.  Must have a bind some where, take off the dial , date and day wheels refit the hands and re test to eliminate and issue with the calendar parts. If the motion work turns the hands cleanly with no bind doe's not seem likely to be the cannon pinion ,hour or min wheels but it still may be an eccentric gear or a damaged tooth that is unable to run through under normal power and binds at a particular spot, happy hunting

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks qhartman, I agree it’s an awesome watch but this one’s going to stay with me.  I have been leaning towards a gear train issue as well I just haven’t got as far as tearing it down again.  Watchweasol thanks for the suggestion, I actually have removed the dial and the day and date wheels to see if there’s any link but it continues to do the same thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/5/2019 at 6:48 PM, Nucejoe said:

Check if canon pinion slips, may need tightening.

Will you post a close up pic of the trains under the dial.

Disclose the caliber of movement. Eternaltools,com displays eta parts and thier names.

Joe

I think the caliber is an AS 1920 which i believe has an offset cannon pinion. i had a similar issue with an AS 1916 which is from the same family of movements. I basically followed the steps on this thread https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/4375-movement-id-and-cannon-pinion-problems/ and it solved the problem.

good luck

Edited by Fred
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Loose canon pinion on those is a culprit. 

Dose it stop every round it gets to 10hr, or only at 22hr when day/ date is to jumped.

Presumably the extra load to jump date/day causes this. Excessive friction or a fault in date jump train like Nickelsilver said.

If you are not equipped to tighten the pinion, you should see the contraption I made out of a nail clipper, looks funny but works. 

Joe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Fred said:

I think the caliber is an AS 1920 which i believe has an offset cannon pinion. i had a similar issue with an AS 1916 which is from the same family of movements. I basically followed the steps on this thread https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/4375-movement-id-and-cannon-pinion-problems/ and it solved the problem.

good luck

Right, the canon pinion is friction fit and  you need to tighten this one, Just to clarify, it stops everytime, at 10hr then a pic may help reveal the faulty part. You would need to strip back to day/day train.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone for the great advice.  So I had some time to tear down the movement again and I found my main issue.  From now on I will use my strongest loupe to check wheels after going through the cleaning machine.  I found the smallest buildup of dry oil between 2 teeth, so I cleaned it up and it took off, no more stopping.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
×
×
  • Create New...