Jump to content
  • 0

Question

Is there a proper way to remove a stem from a DG3804B so as not to booger the keyless works?.  I have removed movements before, replaced crystals and replaced hands and never had an issue with stems until now.

I was building my first GMT and was not able to get stem back in!  I had to rebuild the keyless works a real pain. I'm hesitant to try to remove stem again.

I think it should be in the 'hand setting' position and perhaps ever so gently press on the release until it just lets go. I'm guessing to much pressure allows the winding pinion to slide out of place.

Any advise perhaps Mark can do a video on this issue?   My current plan to to leave stem in, trim it, then use extended so as not to even remove the stem  (not best solution) just a real pain to fix the keyless works.

Thanks

Adam

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

9 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0
5 hours ago, abush said:

Is there a proper way to remove a stem from a DG3804B so as not to booger the keyless works?.  I have removed movements before, replaced crystals and replaced hands and never had an issue with stems until now.

 I was building my first GMT and was not able to get stem back in!  I had to rebuild the keyless works a real pain. I'm hesitant to try to remove stem again.

 I think it should be in the 'hand setting' position and perhaps ever so gently press on the release until it just lets go. I'm guessing to much pressure allows the winding pinion to slide out of place.

Any advise perhaps Mark can do a video on this issue?   My current plan to to leave stem in, trim it, then use extended so as not to even remove the stem  (not best solution) just a real pain to fix the keyless works.

Thanks

Adam

I have dealed with some of those GMT movements and from my little experience :

- place stem in "hour setting" position

- press really gently on the release button (use the larger screwdriver that you can put there ... 1.5mm should do)

- turn gently (about 1 °) back and forth while gently pressing until it comes out

What we must consider is that DG3804B is (as far as I know) about just a DG2813 with a GMT function added ... so very low manufacturing quality and they are "hit or miss".

I have one which is a workhorse (almost) keeps pretty good time and never caused me any issue, and 2 which were just "shitty movements" until I decided to service them (long journey and much less easy than playing with an ETA).

I'm not certain that using an extension could be a good idea as the metal used for the wheels is not good so you'd better use the release button if you ever want to get the stem out ... just proceed really gently.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

The keyless works is not that difficult on DG3804B movements ... just about the same as on DG2813, so the best is to train on those 3 hands movements.

That's what I did a few months ago ... removing keyless works and putting it back, even on perfectly working movements ... after some trials you can dismantle and put back really easily, even if thre is several variants of those movements.

When you can do that easily (almost) the only problem you have to deal on DG3804B is to not move or destroy the GMT gears and wheels while working on the keyless works.

But the best is to use other movements, japanese, swiss (or so called) or even high quality chinese (there are some) manufactured with higher tolerances.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Agree. My plan is to use an old one and just tear it all apart and play with it. resetting pinion is fairly simple now that I did it a few times..lol.  The first time it was a bit tricky getting the order of reassembly correct. Cheers!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Agree. My plan is to use an old one and just tear it all apart and play with it. resetting pinion is fairly simple now that I did it a few times..lol.  The first time it was a bit tricky getting the order of reassembly correct. Cheers!
Each time I work on a new movement I take a pic for every part I remove ... It proves to be really helpfull while putting everything back together
Generally I start on the dial face (datewheel and gears, hour wheel, cannon pinion, keyless works, etc ...) then finish with the other face.
Of course the first thing I do is desarming the mainspring.

Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Weird. (this is not my movt) but when I put my keyless works in my dg3804b back together and inserted new stem it would wind and advance date perfect. However When in position 2 and I tried to set hands, the hands would start to move and then it was as if a gear slipped and no resistance. If I pushed stem back in and then out and tried again same result. I took it apart and noticed there seemed to be a lot of play in the gear in pointed to in the picture.  It was as if it would ride up on its pin. By some chance I had an old movt from years ago so I took it apart (it seemed to be very much like the dg3804b) and I grab another ever so slightly larger/taller gear replaced the offending one and presto it all works perfect now!  Not sure what the deal was with that but I'm pretty happy for now. Thanks!

sliding pinion and gear

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Well finished my first built.  DG3804 GMT movt, 40mm case, sapphire crystal, 28.5 dial and  carbon fiber strap. Ok so it cost me $120 but I got it all together myself! Plus learned how to fix keyless works priceless experience. Now looking a building something with a 6497.

dg3804watch.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
6 hours ago, abush said:

Well finished my first built.  DG3804 GMT movt, 40mm case, sapphire crystal, 28.5 dial and  carbon fiber strap. Ok so it cost me $120 but I got it all together myself! Plus learned how to fix keyless works priceless experience. Now looking a building something with a 6497.

dg3804watch.JPG

Really nice GMT... seems the datewheel has nice serifs ... congrats.

From my little experience (I have 3 of these) the DG3804B can be really reliable if you take care of it and it keeps the GMT hand pretty well synchronised.

Just take care of not changing the date or adjust the GMT hand after 10h00 PM and before 2:00 AM and you could keep it for years.

 

While building a watch with  a 6497 you'll see  that those "big" movements are pretty easy to work with, much more than DG2804Bs and DG2813s ... now waiting for your next thread ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Answer this question...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Similar Content

    • By 2lostsouls
      Good afternoon everyone. I have finally taken apart my wife's grandfathers Timex watch, which has a 24 movement. I have several questions:
      1. The stem is really sloppy, what can cause that?
      2. What is the best way to clean this movement. I do not have a machine so it will be done manually.
      3. Where can I get a crystal? Is there a place to buy them if I measure it? 
      Thank you for all of your help. 
    • By Giuseppe
      Hello I'm starting to service a vintage zenith with 2572PC movement in it.
      First problem is I can't seem to find a way to release the winder.
      This apperas to be the simplest type of relese system as a push down bolt is easily spotted.
      The point is it just doesn't release and this is where doubts come in...
      Am I missing something?
      In the attached image I'm trying to show what is unexpected to my unexperienced eyes.
      TIA
      Giuseppe
       

    • By wilding
      Hello there watch fix fans. Here's (I hope) an interesting one for you.
      I have this beautiful small ladies 'Fero Feldmann' Swiss-made watch - it came in a bag of "used and to be repaired" watches.
      From what I can see, the mechanism seems in very good working order. Just a slight shake and it goes and goes. There is no strap, but that is not the issue here.
      The problem is the stem and/or crown. As you can see, there is definitely no crown. But I am wondering about the stem.
      The watch does have its case and edoes have, as you can see, a hole where the stem and/or crown will/should fit in.
      There is something which appears to be some kind of part-stem at the 3 o'clock position.
      Using tweezers I can pull it out and push it back in quite freely. A very small screw on top holds this "stem" in place. I think you can see, in ths second photo, how this "stem" attaches to the rest of the movement.
      Clearly I need to attach a crown. BUT what about a stem? A stem extension? Or one of those crowns which has an extended stem-like attachment which should fix onto this current "stem" in this watch?
      Yes, the watch face is somewhat scratched, and the minute hand is a little bent at the top. You may say it is not worth my while trying to get this fixed. But I just SO MUCH like this little watch and would LOVE to give it life again! It clearly IS still "alive" - though I'm not sure if it is a mechanical wind-up or an automatic. The latter of these seems to be the case - as I said earlier, a little shake and the mechanism goes and goes. PErhaps with a little oil (and lots of encouragement) it can be made good.
      So my main question - what kind of stem/crown to attach and how to do it?
       


    • By Heman
      Hello all,
      I have a watch I would like to fix my self. It's made by TAWATEC, who is no longer in business. It's very similar to a Luminox and used TGS for lume. I will provide information to the best of my ability. 

      Here is a link to some information about it. Here are a few pictures of the watch. 

       


       
      I have had the watch since May of 2011. I had the battery replaced in Feb 2015 by a local shop. Less than a year later, I noticed that after taking a shower there was condensation under the crystal. I pulled the crown and left it sit to air out. After about a week I pushed the crown back in and the watch no longer worked. I wondered what caused it to leak. I then remembered I had to change the date on the watch a few days before condensation had got inside the watch. When I was trying to set the date I noticed that it was difficult to pull the crown out and it was more difficult to turn than usual. My guess was that the gasket/O-ring that is on the stem/crown was messed up and had ripped and water had entered that way. I left the watch sit for a year and used another watch as my daily driver. I'm hoping to get this one up and running again. So I recently decided to see if I could fix the watch myself. 
       
      Here is what I have done and have figured out so far...
      I was able to remove the case back by removing the 4 Phillips screws. Visually inspecting the O-ring that seals the case back, everything looks good. The movement is a Ronda 515. The plastic ring that holds the movement inside the case says Ronda 515 # 6. I was able to remove the crown and stem. Looking towards the inside of the crown there was remnants of the O-ring. After clearing the remnants and putting the crown back in, the crown moves freely. I also found remnants if rubber on the front of the dial. After inspecting the battery, it looks to have leaked its electrolyte What I would like to do first is replace the O-Ring that's on the crown and put a new battery in it. If I then determine that the movement is damaged, I can replace it later. 
      What do I need to do to figure out what size of O-ring I need for the crown? I can take pictures of the crown/stem if needed. I also have analog calipers to use that are in inches.
      Thanks for your time!
       
       
    • By canthus
      Whilst trying to resolve a balance staff issue I came across this download in Cousins.  It is by Ronda and after the movement info it goes on to list details of balance staffs and stems based on their stock lists.  These give good info on balance staff and stem dimensions etc  for many makes and calibers.  It goes back to 1965 so useful for that old watch you may be working on. Once you get the hand of the way it all works it is easy to cross reference for a replacement item if an original is not available.  Hope it can help.
      https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/search?SearchString=ronda
       
  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

×
×
  • Create New...