Jump to content

Open ended watch strap

Davey57

By Davey57
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

Davey57 WRT Addict

Davey57

Posted
Posted

Hi

I haven’t been around much lately, but still trying to fit in a bit of meddling when I can. I have just resurrected my grandfathers old watch, it had a broken balance which I replaced with a secondhand one. At some point in time it had also had a new stem fitted, not very welll if I may say so. It was too long and the crown was too thick, it looked awful. So after a stripdown and clean it is running nicely, I have found a nicer crown and trimmed the stem. It is a lovely old watch. My grandfather died about 40 years ago and it has not run in all that time, I’m not sure when the balance was broken. All I need now to finish it off is a new strap. The case has fixed pins so I need an open ended strap. I have searched for 17mm open ended straps but can’t find much. The only likely contender was a Hirsch, nice straps but quite expensive. Does anyone know where I might find something? Maybe it does deserve a nice Hirsch strap to finish it off. I need a shortish strap as I have slim wrists, the one fitted is ideal length at around 75/110. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.5884A28E-E8BE-4F9C-8A87-1A3F47F25E52.thumb.jpeg.65b0adf4b7e7d28eb9839a4f97fc330e.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
AndyHull Distinguished Member

AndyHull

Posted
Posted (edited)

Have you considered simply re-stitching the existing one. It has a certain veteran charm of its own.

Its not a particularly difficult job. You just need a couple of needles, some suitable waxed thread, and a little patience.

Start by removing the existing thread, then remove the fold over metal tabs, clean those and check for damage, if necessary cut replacements from thin brass sheet.

Clean the leather, use ordinary soap and water for this, then nourish it with the leather treatment of your choice (beeswax based, rather than silicone, I would say, just to keep with the vintage spirit).

Replace any internal cotton or other damaged or worn out spacer material, sew it back to together neatly.

More about the technique can be found in a number of videos on youtube.

Here for example.
 

 

Those Hirsch ones do look good though. Maybe get one for "Sunday best" for it too.

Edited by AndyHull
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
AndyHull Distinguished Member

AndyHull

Posted
Posted (edited)

There are some less expensive options on the bay of course. For example -> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Genuine-Leather-Black-Open-Ended-Watch-Strap-NOS-Fixed-Lugs-16mm-17mm/222901723491?hash=item33e5fa6163:m:mWmXuxs5-03_WbpfqOhyfJA
(That ones looks like it genuinely is  new old stock.)

Try searching for some variations of "Genuine Leather  Open Ended Watch Strap Fixed Lugs 17mm"

Edited by AndyHull
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Knebo
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Knebo · Posted

      Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • GuyMontag
      Movement holder made with 3D printer

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • RichardHarris123
      Intro

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • oldhippy
      Without Our Forum

      By oldhippy · Posted

      Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
    • oldhippy
      Intro

      By oldhippy · Posted

      Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.    
×
×
  • Create New...