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I have tried this task many times and failed. It is however a skill worth learning because hairsprings are difficult to source and I have many but without a collet. Thanks for sharing -
By watchweasol · Posted
Hello Romeoz and welcome to the forum, ask the questions and enjoy. -
Elma red is a very good cleaner and makes parts shine, but if there is any hint of tarnish of the nickel plated main plate or bridges it can clean the tarnished sections right down to the bronze layer, in as little as 5 min in Ultrasound... the untarnished parts will really sparkle though. -
Coincidentally I've posted that recently. Here how it's taught in watchmaking school: https://watchmakingjourney.com/2014/08/16/last-week-final-project-colleting-and-studding-hairsprings/ -
I have have never heard of any watchmaker, professional or not, which recommend soaped water. It's just not right for cleaning a watch mov.t. As mentioned above, there is no need for special cleaner but there is for a petrol based one. I recommend the classical horological product, petroleum ether. On Ebay UK the cheapest (smallest) bottle cost a mere £9.95 shipped. Of course if you buy a biggest bottle the cost per liter gets lower. No matter the size, the cost per liter is lower than lighter fuel, and the purity much higher, notwithstanding one will read here and elsewhere people always recommending the latter. After that, if cone want to avoid rinsing id demineralized water, that is fine. And even IPA (not a costly purchase starting £5 or so) is skippable, just do a 2nd or 3rd rinse in petroleoum ether. For all rinses, do it in a clear jar and look at it against light, if you can seen floating particles, discard the fluid (but save it for other purposes) and rinse again. Nobody made that suggestion and personally I recommend beginners against spending even 500, or even 50 for that matter. But if one is just a tiny bit serious about this hobby, the price of a meal out for this or that tool isn't unreasonable IMO.
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