Jump to content

ETA Part #8335 Operating Lever Spring Problem


Recommended Posts

Hi

One of the bends in the Operating Lever Spring (8335) accommodated the Setting Lever (443/1) shaft but the spring should be able to fit under the Train Bridge (106); however, the bend in the Operating Lever Spring sticks out from under the Train Bridge where it should be snugged agains the Setting Lever shaft. 

I have checked for foreign objects and found none. The spring is in the right way and I am quite sure it fit before. Also, there should be nothing in the openings under the Train Bridge to obstruct the spring as it moves back and forth easily. It just won't got under the Train Bridge and snug up against the Setting Lever shaft.

Any ideas?

Dave 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think that the spring will be pushed into place when the Operating Lever and Reset Lever are used. It is sticking out a very small amount from beneath the Train Bridge. If it proves to be a problem, I'll just get more practice disassembling and reassembling the movement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
    • The stress is the force (on the spring) x distance. The maximum stress is at the bottom, and decreases up the arm. That's why they always break at the bottom. I used a round file, then something like 2000 grit to finish. I gave the rest of the arm a quick polish - no need for a perfect finish. Just make sure there are no 'notches' left from cutting/filing. The notches act like the perforations in your toilet paper 🤣
    • It's probably a cardinal rule for watch repair to never get distracted while at the bench. Yesterday, after finishing a tricky mainspring winding/barrel insertion (I didn't have a winder and arbor that fit very well) I mentally shifted down a gear once that hurdle was passed. There were other things going on in the room as I put the barrel and cover into the barrel closer and pressed to get that satisfying snap. But when I took it out I realized I never placed the arbor.  When opening a barrel, we are relying on the arbor to transfer a concentrically-distributed force right where it is needed at the internal center of the lid. However, when that isn't present it's difficult to apply pressure or get leverage considering the recessed position of the lid, the small holes in the barrel and the presence of the mainspring coils. It was a beat-up practice movement so I didn't take a lot of time to think it over and I pushed it out using a short right-angle dental probe placed in from the bottom, but that did leave a bit of a scratch and crease in the thin lid. I had also thought about pulling it using a course-threaded screw with a minor thread diameter smaller than the lid hole and a major diameter larger, but that may have done some damage as well.  Thinking about how this might have been handled had it been a more valuable movement, is there a method using watchmaking or other tools that should extract the lid with the least damage? 
    • 🤔 what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ? Making a small groove so the lubrication doesn't spread across the component but what if when lubing a little overspills and sits on the epilame .
    • Why just the bottom mike ? Is it worth polishing the whole arm ?
×
×
  • Create New...