Jump to content

ETA Part #8335 Operating Lever Spring Problem

Folkvisor

By Folkvisor
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

Folkvisor Super WRT Addict

Folkvisor

Posted
Posted

Hi

One of the bends in the Operating Lever Spring (8335) accommodated the Setting Lever (443/1) shaft but the spring should be able to fit under the Train Bridge (106); however, the bend in the Operating Lever Spring sticks out from under the Train Bridge where it should be snugged agains the Setting Lever shaft. 

I have checked for foreign objects and found none. The spring is in the right way and I am quite sure it fit before. Also, there should be nothing in the openings under the Train Bridge to obstruct the spring as it moves back and forth easily. It just won't got under the Train Bridge and snug up against the Setting Lever shaft.

Any ideas?

Dave 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Folkvisor Super WRT Addict

Folkvisor

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I think that the spring will be pushed into place when the Operating Lever and Reset Lever are used. It is sticking out a very small amount from beneath the Train Bridge. If it proves to be a problem, I'll just get more practice disassembling and reassembling the movement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • rjenkinsgb
      Any tips to correct a sloppy error?

      By rjenkinsgb · Posted

      Two pins or screwdrivers angled out slightly, pressing through from the barrel centre from the opposite side so they contact just clear of the hole in the lid? eg. Strap pin driver needles or similar.
    • Geotex
      Any tips to correct a sloppy error?

      By Geotex · Posted

      That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • GuyMontag
      Movement holder made with 3D printer

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Setting lever spring

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • RichardHarris123
      Setting lever spring

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
×
×
  • Create New...