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    • By AdamC
      Hello, I've been struggling for two evenings now to fit the train bridge on this ETA 2832. Every time it looks like all pivots are aligned through the jewel holes and I begin tightening the bridge, the wheels begin locking up. On closer examination, it looks to me like the 4th wheel is not seating flush against the centre tube as shown in one of my photos. I believe this because the pinion on the 4th wheel is higher than that of the escape wheel, and equally about the same measurement out between the 4th wheel and the 3rd wheel pinion, which is lower. It also looks like the 4th wheel is fouling under the train bridge.
      In your opinion, would my suspicion be correct or should the 4th wheel's pinion rest approx. 1 to 1.5mm above the flange of the centre tube. If it should be flush, do you have any tips to seating it as such? I have obviously tried carefully wriggling it under light pressure without luck. I've added an extra photo showing the placed wheels during disassembly to give some context.
      Thanks in advance 

    • By Mark
      Join me as I strip down, service and review this Chinese ETA 2892-A2 clone. Seagull ST1812 watch movement. There was a couple of issues to deal with but altogether a fairly impressive movement for the price.
    • By arkobugg
      Hello Mates!
      Im working on an ETA 2783, and suspect that the canon pinion is to tight against the lower wheel.
      So I have to make it a little bit more loose...
      Has anybody done this befor? 
      And how it the best way to do this?
      Thanks   A
      ETA type of Center Wheel/Cannon Pinion

    • By arkobugg
      Cheers Mates!!
      Working on a Tudor Oyster Prince with ref no: 2081/4     with a ETA 2784 movment.
      Cleaned and inspected, all looks good, no sign of wear and tear on the main spring, no sharps bend, looks overall good. Noticed that there where some marks on the barrel wall. But that I have seen before witout any drama....
      Oiled it , put togeher , goes like a dream..... but the the spring does not stick, it snaps over after 6,5 turns by crown.
      So the question is:
      Can I just replace the main spring?
      Can I just replace the main spring and do something with the barrel walls ?
      Buy a new barrel with spring? Is it to be sourced?
      Ref 9081/4 is the ETA 2784

    • By Chepatro
      Hi there.
      Has anyone ever heard about an ETA E10.311 movement? I can find no info on it whatsoever. It's one of these LCD screen over dial watches. I am looking for the tech sheet on this.
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    • Well, I don't know the official terms because I'm only an amateur. What I meant saying "full wind" on the 1575 (which is of course an automatic) is: I turned the crown about 40 revolutions so that I'm absolutely sure the mainspring is in the "slipping area". Thats "full wind of an automatic" for me.  Status update: After 30 hours the watch is 11 seconds ahead of the atomic clock. So the "about +9 result" of the timegrapher seems to make sense. I will observe until sunday evening if this is continuing. 
    • It was back in the 70's & 80's when I was a watch/clock maker. I'm still learning something new. Thanks. 
    • It depends on the mov't. 7S26 and its direct predecessors don't. All the others do and you might be surprised to learn that they hack also.
    • Not a great picture. Taken at the bench with the lights and cellphone.  Elgin Grade 430 3/0s in a jobber's case, Elgin 714 Shockmaster, and  Wittnauer Revue 73.  The Witt dial was shot so I just stripped it down to metal and did barely enough polishing the make it un-ugly.   I didn't think it was valuable enough to justify restoration.  Probably all will go to the auction site now that I am done with them.   RMD
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