Hello. Dear watchmakers.
I have a very old timepiece from Rolex that I am about to work on..
From googling, I found out that this is called "trench watch" that might had been used during WWI or any other war in that era ( 1910~1920)
However, I could not figure out the reference no. of the movement. All I know about the movement is that it is 29mm in diameter and has 15 jewels.
I am actually looking for a replacement movement for this watch since the mainspring must be replaced due to damage.
Plus, I am also looking for the rachet wheel with "Rolex" engraved to replace the existing one.
I have found similar movements on the web(the third photo added) but click part was not the same.
I wonder if the one with different type of click would have parts that are replaceable.
To sum up, my questions are
1) the reference of the movement.
2) how I can get parts or the whole movement for replacement
3) does a movement with different click type would be suitable for replacement.
Thanks and I wish you a great day.
Why my rolex precision 6466 stops when crown screw down..
But it runs again when crown not screw down or in manual wind position?
It stops when the crown enter too deep inside the movement..
As mentioned, brand new GR mainsprings do not usually require lubrication. You have observed my videos on YT where I apply a little grease to automatic watches to the barrel wall. As has been mentioned above, this is braking grease. The mainspring also has an extremely light (and I mean extremely light) application of 8200 along it's length also. I do not film every aspect of what I do as some tasks are a royal pain in the rear to film. This is one of those tasks. Although I do cover this in the video course. The videos on YT are usually a 30 minute give or take condensing of a job that may last hours I cannot film everything. If you look hard enough you may notice many places seemingly not lubricated - this doesnt mean those friction points were not dealt with. My YT videos are there for entertainment purposes and whilst many find them extremely useful as a learning aid, they are not comprehensive breakdowns of a full service, that would make them hours long each., my course on the other hand is a full breakdown of all steps required to effectively service a watch. I hope this clears things up
In theory you can work ruby with anything harder or as hard (diamond is worked with diamond), but it's so easy and cheap to get diamond lapping compounds and powders that it's really the way to go. I'd suggest a copper lap rotated in the lathe, but almost any material is ok- acrylic, iron, etc. For pallet faces I would use 1micron diamond, it will cut slowly but surely and leave an entirely satisfactory finish.
I picked this little Russian up and was enamored by the dial. When it arrived I discovered it had the stout Vostok 2209 movement. I found it was a very clean movement and only needed to be adjust for timing just a bit. The dial that had my attention looked to be silver plated copper with a rather dirty looking patina. The dial isn't engraved as I had hoped, but was stamped with the pattern formed during that process. I wanted to make that pattern pop so I painted the entire dial flat black and used thinner to remove paint only from the top surfaces. Was a bit tricky to accomplish but I think it came out great. Next I turned my attention to the hands. Somene had put a shiny black varnish on the hands as contrast, no lume was present. So I cleaned that of and since I didn't have any white paint, I used liquid white out. I know this is probably blasphemous, but it's a totally temporary solution until I get some lume I like. Placing the hands back on was a bit tricky as the fit was incredibly tight and tough to accomplish with my huge sausage fingers. I have a black leather strap on order for it. Very pleased with the results. Thank you for reading this.