Jump to content

Elliott 8 day platform escapement


nad

Recommended Posts

Currently working on what I believe to be an early 80’s Elliott 8 day clock that's in need of some attention.

 

While it was running when it came into my possession it was losing 20 minutes over 5 days so needed some attention. She's not had the easiest of lives and it showed. At some stage it looks like someone has taken a Dremel to it, I'm guessing to try and “Polish” things up but they only managed to grind parts such as the end of the barrel arbour. Don't ask me why people do this sort of thing, I've no idea. (Picture attached.)

 

0269c20281fd6506eedf7e2e3752bf8b.jpg

 

Fortunately damage was limited to the end of the barrel arbour that's used for winding so not too much of a problem. I also managed to straighten the end of the arbour that's used to adjust the time with a little gentle pressure. Guessing it will be weakened but it's now straight and no need to look for spares and hen's teeth.

 

Have cleaned up the case as best that I can and she's looking a lot better. The movement has been striped and cleaned. There's some wear in some of the pivot holes in the plates which is not a surprise as I don't think that this one has ever been properly serviced. These will be re-bushed with KWM system bushes once they arrive from H S Walsh later this week.

 

Next step is to strip and clean the platform escapement which will be a first for me. The balance, as expected, is a lot bigger to any watch that I've worked on so can't see too much of an issue apart from gaining access to the end stones to clean and oil. My issue is that I'm not too clear how they are held in place. (See picture attached.)

 

2f653a61e97859673af475dbc7f38b30.jpg

 

Anyone come across something like this before who can offer some advice?

 

 

 

Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The barrel arbor is not that bad. Just clean the burs off and polish the end in a lathe if you have one or buff it with emery sticks. It has a thread so it should have a key that is screwed to the arbor. Do no attempt to remove the end stones to the platform; you will never get them back in correctly. If you have a watch-cleaning machine clean all the platform parts in that less the balance wheel, clean that in Ronsonol lighter fluid.

These are good movements I have two 8-day clocks with fully jewelled platforms. These clocks are extremely good timekeepers and will only be a few seconds out in a week. There are some made with only 5 jewel platforms and the real early one have no jewels at all.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks before the advice OH on the platform escapement. I'd also not considered that the barrel arbour may have had a thread on it that had been ground off. I'm guessing that someone has modified a barrel from an earlier movement that had a thread on it rather than one where the key is held in place with a set screw. Will try my hand at tidying it up.

c0f65bf8bd1f65b91f9b2d5b54a91b77.jpg

Photo above gives a side view of the barrel arbour taken as I dismantled the movement.

Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You might find this a good read as an intro to the topic of platform escapements.
http://www.nawcc-index.net/Articles/LaBounty-ServicingAPlatform.pdf
Not sure I’m a fan of craytex to clean pivots. Ideally if they need that, then a jacot tool is the right answer,  but otherwise this is all good stuff.
Thank you for the link, had not seen this before. I can see it being a useful read.

Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

I have an Elliott clock with precisely the same movement as OldHippy's photograph above and the numbers have fallen off the dial blocking the passage of the hands.  I am a complete novice but I would like to be able to stick the numbers back on and get the clock running again (as it is a sentimental value family piece from my wife's family).  I thought that, if I removed the screws from the back (some of which are missing), I would be able to pull out the cylindrical movement, giving me access to the face.  I have tried that and the movement isn't budging out of what appears to be a solid wood case.  Can anyone help me with an explanation of how to get to the face of my clock?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
    • OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
    • The stress is the force (on the spring) x distance. The maximum stress is at the bottom, and decreases up the arm. That's why they always break at the bottom. I used a round file, then something like 2000 grit to finish. I gave the rest of the arm a quick polish - no need for a perfect finish. Just make sure there are no 'notches' left from cutting/filing. The notches act like the perforations in your toilet paper 🤣
    • It's probably a cardinal rule for watch repair to never get distracted while at the bench. Yesterday, after finishing a tricky mainspring winding/barrel insertion (I didn't have a winder and arbor that fit very well) I mentally shifted down a gear once that hurdle was passed. There were other things going on in the room as I put the barrel and cover into the barrel closer and pressed to get that satisfying snap. But when I took it out I realized I never placed the arbor.  When opening a barrel, we are relying on the arbor to transfer a concentrically-distributed force right where it is needed at the internal center of the lid. However, when that isn't present it's difficult to apply pressure or get leverage considering the recessed position of the lid, the small holes in the barrel and the presence of the mainspring coils. It was a beat-up practice movement so I didn't take a lot of time to think it over and I pushed it out using a short right-angle dental probe placed in from the bottom, but that did leave a bit of a scratch and crease in the thin lid. I had also thought about pulling it using a course-threaded screw with a minor thread diameter smaller than the lid hole and a major diameter larger, but that may have done some damage as well.  Thinking about how this might have been handled had it been a more valuable movement, is there a method using watchmaking or other tools that should extract the lid with the least damage? 
×
×
  • Create New...