Jump to content

Need some Help, Spanner head screwdriver.


gill1967

Recommended Posts

I have just purchased my first pocket/fob watch and I am desperate to 'get a look under the bonnet' but the crown wheel has a spanner head screw which I need a screwdriver that fits to remove it. I had some modern spanner head bits but they are a no go.

I have looked on a number of websites...including Cousins and I am struggling to find spanner head screwdrivers for this type of watch screw.

Does anyone have any suggestions. Picture of movement attached.

Regards

Paul 

20190116_114946.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There were tools made for this, and barrel arbors too (in many old watches the hook was on a female threaded ring that screwed to the integral arbor/ratchet). Somewhere in a drawer I have some. But I've always used blunt nickel tweezers. That nut is usually not all that tight.

There are small round jawed jewelers pliers that can fit with a little modification of the tip too.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have a pair of very thin round nosed pliers that will do it. Cut down an old pair of tweezers to a snub nose. I had a tool for this which was like a two pronged screwdriver which I could adjust the width to the holes. Never seen one in years.   

That movement is known as a five bar movement. It is a cylinder so there are no pallets; you have to let all power off before removing the balance. I expect it is Swiss made.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could you not simply modify a flat bladed screwdriver with a file or fretsaw blade to put a slot in it, something like these hex bits, only presumably a little smaller.

ProngedScrewDriver.png.2827b86890260b0bcf504dcd4938b608.png

Alternatively if you want something more like OH describes, look on ebay for small circlip pliers, they typically have interchangeable bits with round tips. One final suggestion, superglue (or epoxy) two pins or sewing needles to a piece of hardwood or rigid plastic at the correct distance apart, then file the points flat to avoid scratching the wheel below with them.

Edited by AndyHull
Link to comment
Share on other sites

These cylinder movement sometimes can be a bit temperamental and maybe not the best to  start of with but mostly they are a great fun.
That kind of nut was very popular with makers like Remontoir. The movements usually is in a good shape but the watch cases often seen better days since back in the days everyone was a "Watch maker" and tried to service the watch by over oiling things.
Here is a picture to clarify how to remove it with a pair of tweezers. It mostly comes of like a normal right threaded nut.
Just slightly push downwards while turning it.

Remontoir.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You will see another thread on this question here https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/6499-pig-nose-or-snake-eyes-or-spanner-driver-help/#comment-96309

If this is your first cylinder movement, then one word of warning: make sure you have definitely let down all the power from the mainspring before removing the balance, otherwise the train will spin away and you may cause bad things to happen

Enjoy!

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...