Join me as I strip down, service and review this Chinese ETA 2892-A2 clone. Seagull ST1812 watch movement. There was a couple of issues to deal with but altogether a fairly impressive movement for the price.
I've been looking for a forum like this for a while. My Minorva Tourbillon watch has a hand that fell off. Now this is not the time or place to discuss the ups and downs of of purchasing an inexpensive tourbillon watch. However I do like to watch and love to have it back in my wrist. Issue is I cannot get the movement out. I opened the back and was unable to remove the movement from there then I was advised to try to get the moving out from the front but I'm having real problems getting the front bezel and Crystal off. I've attached some pictures they're not the greatest, I'll upload some better ones if needed but any help would be appreciated here. Thanks in advance.
I thought about forcing the crystal out with air pressure, because all I need to do is just access the front of the dial. However then I realized it if I pressure the front crystal out the back display case will probably pop out first.
I just got a new Chinese movement (TY2867), and when I push the winder in, the movement won't start. I've manually wind it a few times, pull the winder out and push it back in.
What could be the issue? Thanks
I am struggling to find a way to remove the movement on this large Ingersoll watch from its case. Cannot seem to find any screws that pin the movement to the case.
Tried to remove the steel spacer, it is un-movable even with pliers.
Does it mean that that I have to come from the glass? If through the glass, do I pry on the small opening on the bezel (see the second picture attached)?
I would imagine decreased amplitude if applied to fourth or escape wheel, but i noticed hardly any difference with the 3rd wheel in most cases so i think thick oil would be the proper lubrication here in most cases. My question is why would Seiko make the distinction between capped and uncapped jewels? Why on the same wheel apply thick oil on the uncapped end and thin oil on the capped end? Is there some rule against applying thick oil to capped jewels that I haven't heard about?
Just noticed that Mark Lovick uses thin oil (Moebius 9010) for the 3rd wheel in his ETA 2824-2 service video (@8:58). This goes against the recommendation of the ETA technical sheet for the 2824-2, but I believe he does so for a reason. If you read this Mark your comment would be appreciated!
While on the topic; what would the effect of using a thick oil be when applied to a pivot where we'd usually apply a thin oil, such as the escape wheel?
Just to update: I got about a tablespoon of shellac flakes from my BHI DLC assessor, and they work great. I just put a tiny chip of it on top of the pallet, heat it until it becomes semi-fluid and spread it to the right places with a sharpened oiler. Then heat a bit more so that it flows out nicely.
I think one tablespoon will fix a lifetime of pallets.. All the other shellacs I have I'll use for cementing workpieces etc.
I'm not sure how up to date that guide is. Pretty much every service manual I come across lubes 4th and escape with thin oil but 3rd with thick oil. Even Seiko agrees, showing thick oil being applied to the uncapped side of the 3rd wheel.