Jump to content

Question about jeweling


Recommended Posts

Hello i watches the video on here about how to replace jewels. I guess i need to get a set of jewel opener and closers but i have a K&D staking set which has the reamer holder and the pushers. but it does not have the jeweling attachment. I have 2 questions

 

1. do i need to get the jeweling attachment or can i just push them in by hand, i noticed they do have handheld jewel pushers. or can i get a seitz jeweling base but will it work with the K&D reamers?

2. Where can i buy jewels? i usually work on very old watches from 1910-150 i was going to get a vintage assortment but i learned that those assortments never have what i need since most of them are for 10L size or less. I work on trench watches which are usually 11.5L-13L.

3. what is the difference between reamers and pushers? and how do i tell the difference between them?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1. You’ll struggle to get the end-shakes correct and potentially push too far if you just use a staking set. The only time when it can be ok is when you insert a jewel which is to sit absolutely flush with a plate/bridge/cock as you just use an oversized punch. Note that you need different tools for “rubbed in” jewels (setting opener / closer).

2. It’s worth getting hold of scrap movements. Otherwise job lots of jewel selections appear on eBay. Apparently you can buy Chinese-made synthetic jewel selections but the colour may not look correct on your antique pieces. 

3. A reamer is just a cutting broach, but in the case of a Seitz it will look short and have a fitting such that it can be held in the tool. A pusher is the end-piece which fits the plunger and is chosen to suit the jewel size. Have a look at an online scan of a Seitz accessories catalogue or similar. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • people be honest.... Swatch is evil for the watchmakers and repairers, BUT not everything in watches from Switzerland is from the Swatch-Group. As far as i know, Selitta got sacked by Swatch as a Movement-Assembler for them and they started to produce Movements in their own Name with slight Modifications. As far as i know, they sell Parts to the Market for their Movements. In most cases, if a ETA-Movement fails, it is a valid Option to replace it with a Selitta Movement, which i consider the Solution for this Mess with the Swatch-Group...... I have no Connection to anybody at Selitta, but being a Swiss-Guy, i still like to have Swiss-Made Watches, but not from the Swatch-Group.   ok ? regards, Ernst
    • Just one more greedy act by Swatch. They started a number of years ago here in the US..cutting off supplies to watchmakers that could build complications that many Swatch houses couldn't even touch. Old school masters who had gone through some of the most prestigious houses in the world. Otto Frei has some statements on their page about it. I tell all my customers to avoid new Swiss watches like the plague,..unless they just want an older one in their collection that still has some parts out on the market, or they have really deep pockets and don't mind waiting months and paying through the nose to get it back. Plenty of others to choose from..IE Seiko,..or other non-swiss brands Even a number of Chinese brands are catching up with the Swiss,..and I think that in time, their actions will be their downfall
    • Yes. If that's not what you are experiencing...start looking for something rubbing. A 1st guess is that one of the hands is rubbing against the hole in the center of the dial. Especially if you now have lower amplitude in face up/ face down positions.
    • Once a movement has the dial and hands put back and it is recased, would you expect the assembled watch to have the same amplitude as when the movement is in a movement holder and is without hands and dial? Thanks
    • C07641+ not sure what the "+" is for after the last digit.
×
×
  • Create New...