Jump to content

How to store watchparts


Recommended Posts

Hi!

I have developed quite a hobby of (trying to) repair old watches, I have bought about 25 cheap different old watches. Some of the watches came with obviously broken parts and I have managed to break a few parts myself sadly. 

I have everything nicely organized through excel where i log everything i do and what problems I find with the watches.

So my question is, what´s the best way of storing watches/watchparts that wont ever be used in the movement they currently sit at? Should i pick the movement apart and store all good parts in a boxlike thing? (I have a 3d printer so making the boxes is no problem) Or should i keep the movement intact and remove parts when needed?

How often do you actually get to use a (used) spare-part in a different movement? Seems to be a lot of different movements in watches so maybe going through the process of taking apart and writing down all parts I have simply is not worth it.

Thankful for all tips and recommendations,  Jakob 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've spent a lot of my career managing fleets of computers, which for this area are very similar to watches. What I did there was assign each one a serial, and note what was missing / broken from that particular computer in the inventory for it. I imagine a similar approach would would well here. Each individual watch or movement gets a bin, with a notation on what's missing / broken. As you pull parts, that list gets longer. Could even make it a checklist for most things.

 
The only place it falls down is if you have parts that aren't in a movement, then you need a place to keep those straight. For those, I'd be inclined to treat it the same, but the plates are among the missing pieces. Then, as you collect pieces for that movement, you can add them. Unless you get to the point that have many duplicates of the same part for the same movement, this won't get too inefficient, and it avoids the labor of "parting out" a bunch of stuff  and the risk of loss / breakage that introduces. If that does happen, you can always create another system / exception for that.

At the scale I'm at I just use a multi-compartment parts bin and keep all the pieces from a given watch in a bin together, and whole watches in another multi-compartment bin. I have slightly less volume than you though, so I don't know at what point that will fall apart.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
×
×
  • Create New...