Jump to content

ETA2824 setting issue


Pip

Recommended Posts

Hi all. I’ve stripped and cleaned a 2824 for the first time, all seems simple enough. Except! On reassembly of the movement including calendar side I found it really hard to turn the crown in P3 for setting the time. I’ve had it up and down several times today and can’t quite nail it. However, a likely symptom of this is that the wheel (minute wheel) circled in red below turns with difficulty one way, when turning the other though the central portion of it turns but not the main wheel.

Any ideas gang as I’m scratching my head here.

Thanks in advance ;o)

688c01fec6a802f0029247da2fd0c39e.jpg

 

And here’s a closer pic of that wheel.

964f090d77c3d23b8d915e810a621f9a.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you put the little lever on the setting lever spring behind the setting lever. That is easy to forget the first time. The one that is shaped like a U . If that isn't on the setting lever it wont push on the clutch wheel. 


I think I did but I no doubt didn’t. Thanks Roger, I will check this out.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, rogart63 said:

My bad . See now that it is a 2824. Not 2824-2. They don't look the same in the keyless work. So can't be that then. 

Maybe just a typo the movement in the picture looks more like an 2824-2...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One direction turns, the other dosn,t.

 The date is suppose to jump in one direction and not the other.

Check the date jumper at 9 hr (  a culprit, that is where I think the problem is) , the jumper is suppose to sit in between two teeth of date ring. Loosen the screw on date jump maintaining cover, that is the stuff at 9hr, a U spring pushes on the jumper.get the jumper in beteewn two teeth.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My bad . See now that it is a 2824. Not 2824-2. They don't look the same in the keyless work. So can't be that then. 


No, my bad as I didn’t realise they were different things. Apologies, I’m usually working on Seiko’s.
Here’s the movement ID at the start of the tear down and a pic of the keyless after rebuild...
39f26ef08b7b92576cf8e39c85e20c64.jpg

c94457fa0868dc3a21effaaf5a19f3ab.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As I understand it you had problems in the third position which sets the time. 
The tension to get a correct action is set by the spring rogart63 told you about earlier. If you haven't put the spring on the lever it will akt strange.

Quick date adjust should be in the middle position.
I attach a photo so you can check.

P3.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you. I get the feeling from the suggestions that I have set the spring incorrectly. I’ll check this tomorrow and report back. Hope it’s this as it’s an easy fix!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Pip said:

 

Hi all. I’ve stripped and cleaned a 2824 for the first time, all seems simple enough. Except! On reassembly of the movement including calendar side I found it really hard to turn the crown in P3 for setting the time. I’ve had it up and down several times today and can’t quite nail it. However, a likely symptom of this is that the wheel (minute wheel) circled in red below turns with difficulty one way, when turning the other though the central portion of it turns but not the main wheel.

Any ideas gang as I’m scratching my head here.

Thanks in advance ;o)

688c01fec6a802f0029247da2fd0c39e.jpg

 

And here’s a closer pic of that wheel.

964f090d77c3d23b8d915e810a621f9a.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

The central portion is what should turn, if the whole wheel is turning then you have an issue. There should be a heavy oil at the intersection of the two parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All rebuilt and no better. This is with the keyless in P3 for setting. I turn the crown away from me then toward me and repeat this process. The video shows what is happening in the movement. Apologies for the shaky video, it was a bit awkward without an assistant!

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have the balance out yes? When you are turning backwards it's causing the escape wheel to run backwards, this is what's letting the large wheel move. It should remain stationary while the pinion slips.

Of course! Feels like that should have been obvious now you say it. Thanks you.

 

Did you lubricate the junction between the pinion and the wheel?

No... should it be just a touch of D5? Or HP1300? And I’m guessing that one should put a hint of oil in the friction point between the two elements?

 

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I've remained silent on this thread, and at the risk of upsetting everyone, the thing that worries me the most the the apparent absence of Mark. The moderators do a great job and the members also pitch in, and the site seems to run itself, but it is a concern for the future of this forum when the owner is absent for all intents and purposes. Like many of the comments above I would hate to log in one day and things be closed down as I rely on this site for ideas and knowledge and also cheer me up. maybe the Moderators could reach out to him, assuming he does not read this thread, and express our concerns and let us know the plans going forward? some kind of WRT ark
    • That was the exact reason for me starting this thread watchie. Still we haven't worked out how the regulars are going to hook up if it goes tits up. I honestly think something should be arranged to stay in contact, we all help each other so much. 
    • Yeah ive watched that a few times before,  i couldnt find my old school dividers to scribe it up 😅 Yep thats the guy i bought a roll from . Thanks Nicklesilver that answers that perfectly and more or less what i thought an experiment over time would prove . The jumper arm is quite thick along its length, i left it that way intentionally, i thought the original was probably very thin, i didnt see that it was already missing. Setting isn't particularly stiff as such just positive, i still need to take it out and polish where it mates with the stem release. 
    • Yes, "Sold out" is difficult to understand. There doesn't seem to be a lot going on. It's been nine months since any new video was published on the Watch Repair Channel. The Level 4 course on watchfix.com has been in progress for what feels like forever (several years!?). Maybe Mark's enterprises aren't doing well or perhaps already so profitable there's nothing much to motivate him for more material. Or, perhaps these days he's more into crochet. The real reason is probably something entirely different but it would be nice/interesting to know. I don't mean to sound gloomy or pessimistic, but I wouldn't be surprised to be met by an HTTP 404. Every day feels like a gift. Speaking of watchfix.com I've been postponing the "Level 5: Servicing Chronograph Watches" course for a very, very long time. Anyway, I just enrolled on it so it's going to be very interesting to see the videos. I must say, IMO there's nothing really that can compete with Mark's courses when it comes to presentation and video quality. It's simply world-class and makes me associate with some really expensive BBC productions.
    • Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different. And getting the hardened bar past its point of plastic deformation takes a lot more effort.
×
×
  • Create New...