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Lenj

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Hi all,

My task for this year is a clock that has been sitting in a tin for a long while..I need to put a new bush?? Into a contrate wheel, I have tried to make a new insert with a piece of holed brass bushing wire drilled and tapered to arbor, but split the bush reaming it out, so needs rebushing, are these bushes off the shelf?? If not, I need to invest in a small lathe, I have looked at the those on ebay for about £450 are they capable/suitable or do I need a proper watchmakers lathe as they do look a tad big for what I want to do, a Boley? Well that Is out of the question....As usual any help greatly appreciated..

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I agree with OH, for general clock work it's hard to beat a Unimat. There's also Sherline and Taig, both quite good for clock work with used examples often on Ebay. What makes any lathe useful is the accessories, the 3 makers above have quite a range available, and your best bet is getting something secondhand with a decent set of accessories with the machine (chucks, collets, toolholders, etc.).

Watch out for the newer Unimat, it the model "1", and is made with many plastic parts and nowhere near as good as the old models. In general I would stay away from the ubiquitous Chinese 7x-something lathes.

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I'm not a Unimat guru but from what I've read the early models had a 12 x1mm spindle nose and the later ones 14x1 like OH has. Haven't heard of one with an inch nose;  perhaps some were made special for the U.S. market as the popular Atlas/Craftsman hobby lathe had a 1/2-20 inch nose?

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Hi All,

Thank you as usual for getting back to me, and for being very informative, I can see why you all recommend the Unimat 3, but a bit out of my price range, I saw a brand new one for £2,5k that is a lot. I also saw a second hand one for starting at £900, for what I want it for I can't justify that kind of money, I am not an engineer and don't know how to make wheels and cogs etc I don't have the know how.. being a pensioner I am too old in the tooth for starting up another part of this hobby..I just need something to mend a few pivots and to make the bush for my contrate wheel.. I saw a bare base for a Unimat 3 but time you add all the motor and parts, it would probably end up being a lot dearer..I will have to keep an eye open for a cheap one, I don 't want to go down the road of the little mini cheapy £100 lathes that I asked about in a previous thread, saw one in action and, I could do a better job freehand..  

Thanks for all your help - Len

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All,

Thank you to OldHippy for all the help and advice and to Nicksilver and Vinn3. All the help was much appreciated.

I have now collected my lovely old Unimat3 lathe, well please with it, all that is needed is a repaint. It was full of metal shavings, etc, I gave it a good clean out, I will strip it later and repaint to tidy it up a tad.

The Unimat3 that I got, has the improved  drive in the way suggested many years ago by Rex Tingey?, in that the supplied motors on both lathe and vertical column have been replaced by powerful dc motors using toothed belt drive..I must say it works very well, I got some extras with it, including 2 more brand new dc motors, a speed controller spare belts and the original Unimat drive pulley.

I have had a little play with it and considering I have not used one before, pleased with what I have achieved, I have made my bush for my contrate wheel, a couple of new tommy bars as the old ones were a bit tired, and a couple of drill centres, apart from the tommy bars, rest made out of recycled clock parts!!!.

Now on my way to restoring my Chiming carriage clock..Need to sort out the platform next before I strip and clean.

Once again thank you all for the help and advice..

 

Len  

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good for you, they're a solid little lathe.  The motor upgrade is nice, imo they were under powered.  I've got two of them for the moment and just converted one to a Consew motor (DC Servo).  Those motors are so nice (the great combination of seemingly decent quality at a low price), I've plans to buy 3 more and put them on a bunch machines.

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1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

There will be no stopping you now. I always look on ebay to see what is about when it comes to accessories.

Hiya,

Must admit I made a few of the bushes before I got it right, taking off too much metal on the collar, they will do as spares if needed, but put down to practice and experience. I am glad I kept all those clock pillars, they have come in handy..

I had a wood lathe, but never a metal lathe. I think I done pretty well in getting this lathe so cheap with all the extras, oh and I forgot there was a brand new chuck as well.

What do you use for holding collets is there something special??

Once again thanks for all your help, its much appreciated.

 

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30 minutes ago, measuretwice said:

good for you, they're a solid little lathe.  The motor upgrade is nice, imo they were under powered.  I've got two of them for the moment and just converted one to a Consew motor (DC Servo).  Those motors are so nice (the great combination of seemingly decent quality at a low price), I've plans to buy 3 more and put them on a bunch machines.

Hiya, 

Yes these motors are so smooth using the toothed belt drive, apparently you can take a bit more metal off each cut, but I am in no rush so take it easy. the other two spare motors are 150w dc, so a bit more powerful, I don't suppose I will use them. I am very happy with my purchase..

Len 

 

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4 hours ago, Lenj said:

What do you use for holding collets is there something special??

 

yes, not so easy on the unimats.  The U3 is going to be great for clocks but doesn't serve the same function of a watchmakers lathe, at least collet wise.  There is a spindle mounted (screws on like any other chuck) ER style chuck you can get as an accessory.  I've got one, it works, but while ER collets are great for holding tools, they're less so for work holding.   With the older db200 unimats there was a ww spindle accessory, basically you swapped spindles out for it.  They're somewhat rare, I've not seen one, and it won't work with the U3.  Spindles for the db200 are magneto bearings in a tube, the whole tube is easy to swap by loosening a clamp whereas the U3 is deep groove ball bearings contained with the headstock casting with snap rings and bellville washers - not swapable.    (Still, you got the better lathe, by  a good margin imo).

For concentric work, turn between centres or dial it in in the four jaw.  The 3 jaw is also a good little chuck with not too much run out

 

 

 

Edited by measuretwice
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I have been upt north with the family for the weekend, so not had any "playtime" I will have a play tomorrow!! going to have a go at the platform.

I was wondering if OK to put wheels in the three jaw chuck, a little scared in case it rips the teeth off....I had a look on Ebay and saw this collet holder, ended now, but is this what I should look out for? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Unimat-3-lathe-collet-holder-chuck-E16/264162907662?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Hope you all had a good weekend..

 

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Its as safe as houses to use the three jaw chuck to hold clock wheels. I prefer that to the collets. Yes that is the collet holder. Be careful of poor imitations from such countries as India and China. Watch out for high postage costs if you buy from the U S A.

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14 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Its as safe as houses to use the three jaw chuck to hold clock wheels. I prefer that to the collets. Yes that is the collet holder. Be careful of poor imitations from such countries as India and China. Watch out for high postage costs if you buy from the U S A.

Thanks OH, I will keep an eye out for one, and will use the three jaw chuck, with caution!!!

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