Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

My task for this year is a clock that has been sitting in a tin for a long while..I need to put a new bush?? Into a contrate wheel, I have tried to make a new insert with a piece of holed brass bushing wire drilled and tapered to arbor, but split the bush reaming it out, so needs rebushing, are these bushes off the shelf?? If not, I need to invest in a small lathe, I have looked at the those on ebay for about £450 are they capable/suitable or do I need a proper watchmakers lathe as they do look a tad big for what I want to do, a Boley? Well that Is out of the question....As usual any help greatly appreciated..

IMG_9117.JPG

lathe600.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with OH, for general clock work it's hard to beat a Unimat. There's also Sherline and Taig, both quite good for clock work with used examples often on Ebay. What makes any lathe useful is the accessories, the 3 makers above have quite a range available, and your best bet is getting something secondhand with a decent set of accessories with the machine (chucks, collets, toolholders, etc.).

Watch out for the newer Unimat, it the model "1", and is made with many plastic parts and nowhere near as good as the old models. In general I would stay away from the ubiquitous Chinese 7x-something lathes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  the original unimat, ( the one made in the USA ).  the used ones most often did not have the chuck amoung the accessories.   BUT the headstock thread was 1/2 x 20 inch and a drill press chuck fit and it works like a collet.  vin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, oldhippy said:

 The original unimat were made in Austria. The Unimat 3 is the one you want. 

images.jpg

   does it have metric or S.A.E.  or metric threads on the head stock?   vin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not a Unimat guru but from what I've read the early models had a 12 x1mm spindle nose and the later ones 14x1 like OH has. Haven't heard of one with an inch nose;  perhaps some were made special for the U.S. market as the popular Atlas/Craftsman hobby lathe had a 1/2-20 inch nose?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi All,

Thank you as usual for getting back to me, and for being very informative, I can see why you all recommend the Unimat 3, but a bit out of my price range, I saw a brand new one for £2,5k that is a lot. I also saw a second hand one for starting at £900, for what I want it for I can't justify that kind of money, I am not an engineer and don't know how to make wheels and cogs etc I don't have the know how.. being a pensioner I am too old in the tooth for starting up another part of this hobby..I just need something to mend a few pivots and to make the bush for my contrate wheel.. I saw a bare base for a Unimat 3 but time you add all the motor and parts, it would probably end up being a lot dearer..I will have to keep an eye open for a cheap one, I don 't want to go down the road of the little mini cheapy £100 lathes that I asked about in a previous thread, saw one in action and, I could do a better job freehand..  

Thanks for all your help - Len

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, oldhippy said:

The headstock of the Unimat 3 is solid. The spindle nose is threaded 14x1mm

   thanks;  good to know what thread patern is in the chuck.  vin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, oldhippy said:

You could send the wheel away and get it repaired. 

I have email a couple on ebay, don't want to know too small a job..I will get my lathe..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi All,

Thank you to OldHippy for all the help and advice and to Nicksilver and Vinn3. All the help was much appreciated.

I have now collected my lovely old Unimat3 lathe, well please with it, all that is needed is a repaint. It was full of metal shavings, etc, I gave it a good clean out, I will strip it later and repaint to tidy it up a tad.

The Unimat3 that I got, has the improved  drive in the way suggested many years ago by Rex Tingey?, in that the supplied motors on both lathe and vertical column have been replaced by powerful dc motors using toothed belt drive..I must say it works very well, I got some extras with it, including 2 more brand new dc motors, a speed controller spare belts and the original Unimat drive pulley.

I have had a little play with it and considering I have not used one before, pleased with what I have achieved, I have made my bush for my contrate wheel, a couple of new tommy bars as the old ones were a bit tired, and a couple of drill centres, apart from the tommy bars, rest made out of recycled clock parts!!!.

Now on my way to restoring my Chiming carriage clock..Need to sort out the platform next before I strip and clean.

Once again thank you all for the help and advice..

 

Len  

IMG_9138.JPG

IMG_9145.JPG

IMG_9215.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

good for you, they're a solid little lathe.  The motor upgrade is nice, imo they were under powered.  I've got two of them for the moment and just converted one to a Consew motor (DC Servo).  Those motors are so nice (the great combination of seemingly decent quality at a low price), I've plans to buy 3 more and put them on a bunch machines.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

There will be no stopping you now. I always look on ebay to see what is about when it comes to accessories.

Hiya,

Must admit I made a few of the bushes before I got it right, taking off too much metal on the collar, they will do as spares if needed, but put down to practice and experience. I am glad I kept all those clock pillars, they have come in handy..

I had a wood lathe, but never a metal lathe. I think I done pretty well in getting this lathe so cheap with all the extras, oh and I forgot there was a brand new chuck as well.

What do you use for holding collets is there something special??

Once again thanks for all your help, its much appreciated.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
30 minutes ago, measuretwice said:

good for you, they're a solid little lathe.  The motor upgrade is nice, imo they were under powered.  I've got two of them for the moment and just converted one to a Consew motor (DC Servo).  Those motors are so nice (the great combination of seemingly decent quality at a low price), I've plans to buy 3 more and put them on a bunch machines.

Hiya, 

Yes these motors are so smooth using the toothed belt drive, apparently you can take a bit more metal off each cut, but I am in no rush so take it easy. the other two spare motors are 150w dc, so a bit more powerful, I don't suppose I will use them. I am very happy with my purchase..

Len 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Lenj said:

What do you use for holding collets is there something special??

 

yes, not so easy on the unimats.  The U3 is going to be great for clocks but doesn't serve the same function of a watchmakers lathe, at least collet wise.  There is a spindle mounted (screws on like any other chuck) ER style chuck you can get as an accessory.  I've got one, it works, but while ER collets are great for holding tools, they're less so for work holding.   With the older db200 unimats there was a ww spindle accessory, basically you swapped spindles out for it.  They're somewhat rare, I've not seen one, and it won't work with the U3.  Spindles for the db200 are magneto bearings in a tube, the whole tube is easy to swap by loosening a clamp whereas the U3 is deep groove ball bearings contained with the headstock casting with snap rings and bellville washers - not swapable.    (Still, you got the better lathe, by  a good margin imo).

For concentric work, turn between centres or dial it in in the four jaw.  The 3 jaw is also a good little chuck with not too much run out

 

 

 

Edited by measuretwice

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been upt north with the family for the weekend, so not had any "playtime" I will have a play tomorrow!! going to have a go at the platform.

I was wondering if OK to put wheels in the three jaw chuck, a little scared in case it rips the teeth off....I had a look on Ebay and saw this collet holder, ended now, but is this what I should look out for? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Unimat-3-lathe-collet-holder-chuck-E16/264162907662?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Hope you all had a good weekend..

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its as safe as houses to use the three jaw chuck to hold clock wheels. I prefer that to the collets. Yes that is the collet holder. Be careful of poor imitations from such countries as India and China. Watch out for high postage costs if you buy from the U S A.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Its as safe as houses to use the three jaw chuck to hold clock wheels. I prefer that to the collets. Yes that is the collet holder. Be careful of poor imitations from such countries as India and China. Watch out for high postage costs if you buy from the U S A.

Thanks OH, I will keep an eye out for one, and will use the three jaw chuck, with caution!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Similar Content

    • By Lenj
      Hi,
      Has anyone got one of these lathes?? if so are they any good for repairing pivots etc..I know they would not be any use for heavy work, but thought I would ask first..
      Have a good weekend all..
      Thanks Len


    • By dralexmv
      I would like to understand if the threading for the accesories made for the Sincere lathe (faceplates, chucks, collets, etc) are compatible with the Cowells 90CW lathe. 
      My use case is the fabrication of bridges for existing movements that can be engraved / finished by myself. I would like to start with the cheaper Sincere lathe and accessories, and then upgrade the lathe to the 90CW while keeping all the Sincere accessories. 
      Outside of the actual operation of the lathe, I am quite a novice in the intricacies of accessory threading. I would also like a recommendation (book, online resource, etc) on how to adequaltely assess the compatability between the accessories of two distinct lathes.
    • By RyMoeller
      Well this isn't really a walkthrough because I'm learning on the fly but I felt it was worthy of sharing as the story will probably return some good advice.
      A bit over a year ago I picked up a Breitling Navitimer movement complete with crown, dial and slide rule.  There were a few parts missing and a couple of broken pieces but I corrected those issues in short order and stored the movement away for that day when a case would come available.  

      A few months later just such a case came up on eBay and I picked it up for a fair price even though the bezel was missing.  The case has some issues- for example the threads for one of the chronograph pushers were stripped out (note the pusher held in with glue below) and it looks like the bezel was removed with a forklift.


      I widened the stripped out pusher hole and pushed in a stainless steel sleeve which will be tapped to accept the proper pusher (2.5mm tap, pitch 0.20mm).

      This work was completed some time ago then the project stalled out as replacement bezels are about as common as unicorns.  Frustrated by this I decided to roll up my sleeves and turn a replacement.
      The correct bezel is approximately 3.25mm tall with a 41.0mm outside diameter, so I started with a 304 stainless steel ring which is 6.00mm tall and has an outside diameter of 41.0mm.  I've not turned stainless steel on the lathe before and was hoping to start with a softer grade (say 400) but was limited by what would fit in my three jawed chuck.  Now for anyone who is thinking, "you can't turn stainless like that on an 8mm lathe" you are of course correct (for the most part) but try I did and with a carbide graver I was able to make pretty quick work of the piece- chips were flying nicely but OH BOY DOES IT GET HOT!
      About twenty seconds of turning was all I could do before cooling the graver; this is of course why you always see stainless steel milled or cut under a stream of coolant.  Since my workspace is limited and I don't want to make a big mess I moved on to Plan B (which was actually Plan A because I never figured I'd successfully turn a replacement stainless steel bezel on the lathe).
      Plan B was using brass, which meant I could put the carbide gravers away as they aggressively dig into brass like it's chocolate.
      This time I started with a thick brass washer and my usual HSS graver.  Pretty soon I was knee deep in shavings (which are useful for bluing screws).


      I turned the washer to a ring with an inside diameter of 37.5mm.  A recess was then cut 1.0mm deep to accept the crystal on one side and the inner bezel ring on the other.  The inner bezel ring (on which the bezel is mounted) is about 1.8mm tall so the recess needed to be about 2.00 mm tall to accommodate the inner bezel ring and the slide rule.  Getting the dimensions just right was achieved by using a black sharpie and a scribe (needle in a pin vice) to mark out the cuts then constantly checking and rechecking the fit.



      Once a proper fit to the case and crystal were achieved I proceeded to cut the exterior of the bezel.  The cuts were done by eye then checked and rechecked for proper fit and finish.  The outside diameter of the bezel where it meets the case tapers to 40.0mm and if I cut too much there's no way to add the material back.
      The current status is promising- below are the pictures as it stands today without notches.  I'll be cutting the notches this weekend using a fine round escapement file.  To ensure the notches are evenly spaced the plan is to remove a stainless steel bezel from another Navitimer I own and glue it to this one.  The notches in the stainless bezel with then serve as pilot holes to guide my file.


      Once completed the plan is to have the bezel plated and the case professionally refinished (laser welded, etc.).  Even though it's not correct for this watch, I'm thinking I'll probably have the bezel yellow gold plated as it will be easier to sell when and if a proper stainless steel bezel ever comes to replace it.
      A few things I've learned along the way that might be helpful-
      Don't get discouraged- I was 95% done two days ago when the bezel slipped off the chuck at speed and deformed- I had to start the whole thing over again.  I did get to test my notch making skills on the bent piece though and that's worth something. A three jaw chuck isn't really the right tool for this job.  There is a five or six jawed chuck for holding bezels, if you can find one, I'll bet it's a lot grippier. Turning large brass rounds on a lathe is great for your confidence.  You'll think you're a master until it comes time for clean-up when you realize you really do need a proper machine shop (separate from your service workbench).
    • By rodabod
      Hi,
      Has anyone seen a tool post mount like the one on my Wolf Jahn slide rest?
      It has a conventional slot on one half, but the other half has a plain face with four screw holes. Could this be for attaching a vertical slide? 
      I’m wondering if I should machine a square with a conventional slot and screw this down so that I can attach my tool holder closer to to the work (and thus reduce tool chatter). 
      Also, does anyone know what screw sizes thy used on German lathes? The screw sizes are 3.2mm and 3.5mm and the thread pitch is 0.725mm, so neither Metric nor BA or Thury  
      Thanks. 


    • By Bill3
      I have read many oblique references to the watchmaker's lathe, in fact I have heard of a book devoted to that subject, but I have not read it. I am a hobbyist struggling to learn enough to clean and oil watches that I collect and wear. Although that is all that I do now, I hope to improve my skills to the point that I can repair watches.
      Here is my situation. I have come across a watchmaker's lathe that is for sale at a price that I can afford. Despite seeing references to a lathe, I have never heard specifics about what tasks are accomplished with this tool. Are they useful for the hobbyist? What are they used for? Are they useful in the hands of a beginner? Any other thoughts about the usefulness of a lathe would be appreciated.
      Thank you in advance.
      Bill H.
      Georgia, USA
  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi Rob   further information can be got from the SCWF site they are specific Seiko Citizen watches.
    • Thank you all for your helpful comments.   Rob
    • Here's a brand new one for starters which looks to be the same as yours (?) ... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIAL-TAG-HEUER-F1-HX0266/302649416687?hash=item46774f9bef:g:m1UAAOSwYNxagv4f . Someone else on this forum might have another source other than ebay. However at this price it's also worth looking out for (non-working) complete watches in good condition. Assuming this is the same as yours then this sold for £41 recently as an example of what can come up if you keep an eye out: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ladies-TAG-HEUER-F1-200m-Watch-Spares-Or-Repairs-/293105389179  Perhaps one further suggestion is also to consider an alternative Heuer dial. Unless you're set on the pink there seem to be quite a lot of other Heuer dials available. Of course you'd have to double check diameter and dial feet positions but just an idea if all else fails! Good luck!   
    • Hi Rexxus  The parts you refer to are the center wheel and the canon pinion, One has to remove the canon pinion the remove the center wheel., To do this you will need a removal tool (available on EBAY) to remove the pinion and the center wheel will drop out. I have attached the TZ glossary so as you can identify the various parts by name.  The same tool also is billed as a watch hand remover and provides a parallel upward pull so as not to bend the pinion or indeed watch hands,  happy days TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf
    • check out a book or video on watch repair. it will help you a lot. vin
×
×
  • Create New...