Good evening everyone. I am new to this forum and i can see we have some outstanding experts on the site.
brand new to watch repair and looking to get some advice. I purchased an Omega seamaster quarts 1342 watch (not currently working and not tested) as it was a bargain and understand that 329 is the equivalent of the original mercury battery used when the watch was manufactured?
I am hoping the battery change will mean it is functional but in the event it does not work, how easy/costly is it to repair. (I’ve heard parts can turn this bargain into a money pit)
would anyone in this community willing to have a go at fixing it after i try battery change?
paid service of course.
any help advice would be much appreciated
This one is a real mystery so I thought I'd toss it up here in case someone else has come across this problem.
I've reassembled the Speedmaster which was lacking parts (see my earlier inquiry) and have it up and running again. It's a long story, but amazingly, after missing a bundle of parts and being terribly neglected it's ticking away happily and the chronograph works a treat- but there is one BIG problem. The watch runs about two seconds per minute fast. That adds up pretty quickly. The timegrapher trace isn't too clean but it is consistent and it shows the watch running much better than that (note the image only shows about fifteen seconds of testing on the timegrapher- rest assured, I've had it on there a lot longer than that and have pretty much the same results in all positions)
So why does the timegrapher show the watch running less than a minute off per day but the real world results are so much different? Well there are a few possible problem areas. The escapement may be the problem but the pallet and balance (complete) are NOS replacements from Omega. The escape wheel may be an issue- perhaps it's "slipping" and the pallet isn't locking consitantly. I haven't seen this on the timegrapher though nor have I seen it while watching the escapement under the microscope.
Still, there are some obvious issues in the movement. Whoever disassembled it before I got it made a real mess of things. For example the Delrin wheel on the coupling clutch was vandalized terribly by a wayward screwdriver. It took quite a while to get the gear teeth back in order (the "before" picture is below). I secured a NOS replacement just in case the movement didn't accept the repaired coupling clutch.
Despite this damage, I don't think the coupling clutch is the problem. The fourth wheel is positioned between the coupling clutch and the escape wheel. It's regulated by the escape wheel and the running seconds hand is attached to the fourth wheel. When I time how long it takes for the running seconds hand to make a full revolution using the stopwatch built into my iPhone, I come up with 58.02 seconds (give or take a few tenths).
I'm thinking the problem lies with the fourth wheel. The Lemania 5012 chronograph movement (Tissot 2920) runs at a slower 21600 BPM. The replacement of the fourth wheel in this movement (a Lemania 5100, 28800 BPM derivative) with one manufactured for the 5012 movement would result in the watch running fast. It's questionable whether the gear teeth would mesh properly though. Right now it's just a guess. I may need to tear the movement back down to check the gear ratios for each of the wheels in the train to confirm they're the right wheels for the movement but before I do that I was hoping someone might have solved a mystery such as this before and have some good advice to offer! Thanks in advance for the comments as they are always helpful!
Here's a few pics of the watch as it came together- just because posts with pictures are always more interesting.
Before service begins...
Why you should periodically replace your spring bars-
Omega gaskets self destruct (turn into tar) if they aren't replaced for forty years...
This movement is plastic fantastic but I love it. Other than not keeping time at all, it's the easiest chronograph movement I've worked on.
Look at all those scratches- previous watchmaker's tool of choice- screwdriver or machete?
It is a pretty beast though.
Got this into my bench, but I wonder how ta get the movment out?
I have taken of the glass, removed the stem, but when I trie to move the ring with grooves(red circles) the movment follows anti clock wice.
Is it so simple that I have to hold the movment tight while Im doing it?
First of all my apologies for not having documented the disassembling, but the watch arrived in a terrible condition and I stripped it down right away to get rid of all that dirt.
If you have worked on some watches yet and think about entering the chronograph world with a 7734 let me give you 3 advices:
Do it! The 7734 is a solid construction and not too complicated. Take your time and watch all the 6 parts of Mark's Venus 175-service on youtube. Of course the Venus is a column wheel system, but the basic movement is very similar and also on the chrono layer you can learn a lot especially about lubrication: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EI3T-IR3AgM Download the 7734 service manual. A lot of information here: https://strela-watch.de/valjoux-7734-7733-7736-technical-documentation/
Here we go. Some 8200 for the barrel and the new mainspring goes in (got it from cousins - what I'm gonna do after Brexit? ).
The complete barrel. Some D5 for the arbor.
Putting in the wheels and the bridges. Lubrication: 9010 for the escape wheel and the second wheel, D5 for all others.
The keyless works. 9501 for the stem and the gears.
D5 for the wheels and the lever axis, 9501 for the contact points of levers and springs.
The click spring.
D5 for the click and the crown wheel, 9501 for the contact point of click and its spring. Finally the ratchet wheel goes in.
The pallets go back in, no lubrication for the pivots.
Lubricating the balance jewels with 9010.
The balance back in. The escape wheel and the pallets got epilame so I let run the movement with dry pallets for some minutes.
After that 941 for the pallets (work from the dial side through the window).
Now I start with the chronograph. First the bridge and the spring for the levers go in.
Fly back lever goes in with some D5.
Operating lever, again D5 for the axis. A little bit tricky, you must upline the integrated spring with the upper lever first (9501 for the contact area). The second pictures shows the final layering.
The sliding gear goes in, D5 for the lever axis, no lubrication for the wheel!
At this point I forgot to put in the minute recorder runner (no lubrication). You should install it here, later its going to be more difficult.
The blocking lever (D5) returns. Some 9501 for the contact area to the sliding gear.
The blocking lever spring. Be very careful, this one isn't just a flyer, its a damned Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird.
The friction spring (gets a drop of 9010).
The chronograph runner and its bridge (9010 for the long pivot and the jewel in the bridge).
The minute recorder jumper, no lubrication.
The hammer. D5 for the axis, 9010 for the lever ends that hit the hearts, 9501 for the contact areas to the sliding gear, fly back lever, operating lever, jumper.
The hammer cam jumper.
Before installing the clutch give 9010 to the pivots of the coupling wheel. D5 to the lever axis.
The spring. 9501 for the contact point.
Finally line up the driving wheel with the coupling wheel and the chrono layer is complete again!
The dial side. Some 9501 and the cannon pinion goes in.
Hour wheel with D5.
The dial rest with its 3 screws.
The date indicator.
The date indicator driving wheel with some D5.
The jumper with D5 to its axis. As there was no lubrication described in the manual between disc/jumper or disc/wheel and the parts looked well polished I didn’t lubricate. It works - let’s see how long.
The guard with 2 screws.
Finally the spring.
The dial comes back and is secured with its 2 screws from the side.
While disassembling I put the little hands into seperate trays to prevent mixing them up.
Now I turned the crown in the setting position exactly to the point when the date switches and put on the hour hand to 12.
Positioning the chrono-hand exactly on zero was that tricky that I forgot to take a pic.
New springs and gaskets for the pushers. Unfortunatly I’m not good in restoring cases. So just refreshing the brushing a bit and some cape cod work.
The movement back in the case and secured with 2 screws. A new gasket for the caseback and here we are.
Thank you for watching.
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Hi Len thank you for the detailed reply. I tried a 329 today and unfortunately did not work. As you explained before it looks like the rotor is ocillating back and forth (the second hand moves forward and backwards). Its heartbreaking to see as i was hoping to fix it and give back to my grandfather. is there anyway i can source the part or an alternative movement (does not have to be Omega) that will fit the dial and casing?Although not ideal as takes away from the integrity and beauty of the watch but would love to able to get it working one way or the other so my grandfather can wear it on the wrist again. any help would be much appreciated regards 57253616986__A7C2CEC7-1ACC-483F-933C-D73C742B77C7.MOV