I open this thread to archive works on Citizen 8110A Bullhead. I purchased this watch in poor condition as You can see on the photos.
Cause I have serviced few chronographs in the past I decide to try restore this watch. Maybe is not ractional from the economical aspect but we do this because we love it So let's open it.
Hands are in good condition (required repaint and relume) but the dial has broken legs and tachy scale is faded :/ I think it's really hard to find orginal and there is no gold aftermarket replacement - sad. Look at the movement.
Gosh, what a dirty place It needs good cleaning and oiling.
But the biggest problems are this.
Broken post on main spring bridge and missing rocking bar core and screw in gear train. I need to find replacement.
While I'll be working on movement the case and pushers are send to renew - putting new gold plated coat
Hey everyone, I cant find out how to get this drown off and I've tried everything. The Miyota JS25 movement says PUSH and points to a hole which I've learned means this is where you press to reease the crown but I still can't get the crown out no matter which position the crown is in. I first tried with the crown all the way out then with it halfway in, then all the way in and haven't been able to get it out, please help.
I wish I had more projects to report on but things have really bogged down lately as I continue to bite of more than I can chew. I'm in the middle of three long term projects (the Favre Leuba Bivouac going on year three) and am running short of workbench space. I'm in the middle of changing out the engine in my wife's Mini Cooper too (that's another story but if you own a Mini- be sure and replace the timing chain guides!) and that has really eaten into my "fun time".
I thought I'd bring this one to the board for comments before I'm underwater- it's an old Gallet from the 60's. Do you think it can be salvaged?
We clearly have some water damaged however, the seconds hand will move if the crown is given a little pressure.
Water entered in through the chronograph buttons and the pendant tube. I haven't tried depressing the buttons- I think that would just lead to bits snapping and rust moving about.
I'll need a new stem for sure...
The dial actually looks quite good.
I wonder what it looks like underneath though...
It's not terrible, but it's not great either. Most of the rust damage is concentrated in the keyless works.
There's a bit of damage to the hour recording mechanism...
That's as far as I've gotten thus far. The screw for the Operating Lever is rusted tight and is now being treated with a bit of penetrating oil. Once removed I can pull the second pusher button out and remove the movement from the case. I'll know the full extent of the damage once it's in a pile of bits and pieces.
This is an Excelsior Park EP40-68 movement. I've wanted to work on one of these for quite a while but couldn't afford a proper working piece. Excelsior Park parts are difficult to source though so I may not be able to bring this one back to life.
Had to get new winding stem to an Omega cal. 342 , beacuse not original crown.
Got an replacement from Ronda, but does not fit.
Tried to fit the stem yesterday, but Im not able to get in in right in the movment. The original just go right in every time, but the new Ronda stem will not go properly in. Are there anyone that have some ide why this not fit? Can the notch in the stem where I have put red arrow have somthing todo with this?? Its slightly smaller on the Ronda stem... se photo
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The 99p Avia quartz went back on its own band today. When I cleaned up the watch initially, I put it on a new band, as the one it came on was a bit grubby, however the original is a very nice, fairly high quality band and suits the watch, so I gave it the leather cleaning treatment. This consisted of steeping it in a mix of white vinegar some disinfectant and a little detergent, and giving it a good scrub with a toothbrush. The initial cleaning solution was then replaced with fresh, and the band was left to soak for a few hours. This allowed the vinegar to "tenderize" the collagen in the leather gently, softening it up. Next it was dried on a radiator overnight, sandwiched between sheets of kitchen roll, and pressed flat with a couple of scraps of plywood, with a weight placed on top. Finally the sued side was freshened up with a tiny amount of sued cleaner. Not enough to make it greasy, just enough to make it feel new. The top surface sheen was restotored with an equally tiny rubbing of silicon grease. The result is a strap that looks like it just came out of the packet, and smells fresh and new. This also frees up the replacement band for one of my Timex Automatics.
That makes sense. The watchmaking equivalent of the bodge wire in electronics.
No need for having multiple sources to suffer parts size variations. Parts are made in batches afterwhich the same machine is reconfigured for another part or another step on the same batch. True in the old times of mechanical stops as well as in CNC of today. An error during reconfig, a larger tool wear there, temperature variations and you may be making parts significantly different. Very old watches were made practically by hand so to fit each part to another. Russians probably had decent machines but onerous production targets, impossible to impose strict tolerances so if the problem was correctable at assembly, so be it.