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A Nice Roamer For My Collection.


Geo

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It arrived this morning all the way from Australia. Probably one of my best buys , the general condition is excellent and it is fitted with a new strap and all for £21. It's currently on my wrist and running well, I'll put it on the timegrapher later and see what the graph looks like.

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Wowo Geo that is a good one! That is really , really nice. Now what is the detail of the hands? it looks like they are blunted or maybe they terminate in twin peaks?!? Simple beautiful. The red-tipped sweep seconds is fantastic. All I would suggest os to change the crystal--there's a small crack at 9. Finally,how does it run? Tha movement looks like a breeze to work on too!  Looks like the the complete package. By the way...what is the size?

 

JC

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I would suggest os to change the crystal--there's a small crack at 9. Finally,how does it run? Tha movement looks like a breeze to work on too!  Looks like the the complete package. By the way...what is the size?

 

JC

Thanks for the comments guys, I really think I landed lucky with this one. i was almost put off buying it because of the low "Buy it now" price with the option to make an offer! You know what they say about "Looking too good to be true" ! Another thing that bothered me at first glance, I thought it was an auto with the winding parts removed, and having read Anil's post you can see why. I decided to buy it anyway because didn't have Roamer in my collection and at that price it would still have been a good deal for the spare parts.

Regarding your questions Joe, Will has confirmed calibre and size, the crystal is in perfect condition and the watch is keeping +40 seconds a day on my wrist. I have yet to check it on my timegrapher.

I also meant to say that the movement hacks when stating the time!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have been wearing the watch since I got it, and it was found it was gaining 35 seconds a day. Tonight I used my Timegrapher to check it and got confirmation +35 seconds with a beat error of 5ms. Apart from that the graph looked quite good. I made a couple of adjustments and I'm well pleased with the result.

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    • Put the movement in a movement holder and it will be supported as you push down on the setting lever post to release the winding stem. Make sure the post is over the shoulder of the movement holder so what you are pressing down on is supported. As a general rule, hold the movement and not the movement holder. Replace the hands when the movement isn't in the case and support the centre jewel (if it has one) on a hard surface or staking block when replacing the hands to stop the jewel accidentally moving or even coming out. A dedicated movement holder with a central jewel support is even better, but pricey
    • It might help us if we knew which watch like model number.
    • Hi, guys I have a bit of a predicament and hopefully, somebody can advise. I'm working on a Roamer MST 521 where the movement is extracted from the crystal side. I'm now at the final hurdle where I need to replace the movement back into its case but I'm not sure of the correct procedure. I still need to fit the hands but that's where the problem lies. If I insert the winding stem to test the hands for correct alignment I will need to turn the movement over to release the stem again it's the spring-loaded type and needs a small bit of force to push down but with the hands fitted, I don't think I can do this on a cushion without causing some damage to the hands and that's the last thing I want to do, this watch has already been a love-hate relationship and I'm so close to boxing this one off which I'm counting as my first major project.  The other option is to case the movement then fit the hands and hope everything is okay. I've already broken the original winding stem but managed to find a replacement, the last one in stock, so I'm a bit reluctant to keep removing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
    • I would go for the dearer spring. You won't need to remove the spring from the carrier ring and then use a mainspring winder to get it into the barrel, for a start. Also that spring is closer to the needed dimensions, especially the length. The length plays a part in the mainsprings strength. If you double the length you will half the force (strength) of the spring and vice-versa. A spring with 20 mm less length would be about 7% shorter, so technically would be 7% more strength, but I find halving this number is closer to real-world findings, so the spring would be about 3 to 4% more strength/force. On a mainspring that ideally kicks out 300 degrees of amplitude, a 3% increase in amplitude would be 309 degrees. Increasing or decreasing the length of the mainspring will affect the power reserve to a greater or lesser degree. It depends how much shorter or longer it is.
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