Jump to content

Quartz watch! Keeps losing time!


bosstaki

Recommended Posts

Hi guy’s! Looking for help please! I’ve been trying to get a watch running right for a friend of mine but its been to no avail! I’ve changed the battery twice now with brand new battery’s but it still keeps losses time, it’s lost 20mins in 12hours! The second hand doesn’t stick it ticks perfectly in all positions! I’ve checked the watch pulse with my Etic microtest 2000 & everything checks out fine! Ive checked it for being magnetised! Nothing! Any ideas guy’s!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Bostaki,  How is the old county,  It would be helpfull if you could post a picture of the movement and make and model as some of the older makes had trimmers, the newer versions use electronic inhibition in that the cpu monitors the pulses and either put in extra or takes one out as required to maintain the time if thats gone haywire its a movement change, cousins or HS walsh usually can supply most makes.  good luck in your quest                   Ex Tadcaster now Scotland 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Bostaki,  How is the old county,  It would be helpfull if you could post a picture of the movement and make and model as some of the older makes had trimmers, the newer versions use electronic inhibition in that the cpu monitors the pulses and either put in extra or takes one out as required to maintain the time if thats gone haywire its a movement change, cousins or HS walsh usually can supply most makes.  good luck in your quest                   Ex Tadcaster now Scotland 

be160007cb9871b61d29aac50b88e1da.jpg here’s the watch mate, but I’m not sure what the movement is! I’m at work! I’ll pop the back off later and take a look at the moment mate! I’ll let you know!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your issue sounds like a similar problem to this-> https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/10515-raymond-weil-95145/

I think a lot of the advice there applies here too, so run through the suggestions there.

The issue may be purely mechanical or alternatively electronic. 

I would check the battery contacts are clean, and that there is no obvious sign of corrosion anywhere, then inspect the module very carefully for hairline cracks and damaged solder joints.

It doesn't take much with the very low power levels involved for things to get out of whack. A loose connection on one end of the crystal, or moisture damage or a crack to one of the resistors or capacitors, and things get strange when they cool down or warm up. 

If you have access to an oscilloscope, things get a lot easier, but assuming you don't, then start with those suggestions first and we will see if we can get to the source of the issue.

Does the movement loose an exact amount per day, or does it vary. Do you have access to a time grapher, (or time grapher software on your PC or phone, for example -> https://tg.ciovil.li/

A time grapher will let you see exactly what affects the rate of the watch (position, temperature, vibration etc). I'm assuming that the movement in question does actually autibly tick. Some quartz movements are so quiet that you would struggle to get the microphone to hear them, and others sweep without ticking.

If the thing is silent, then you would need an oscilloscope to "see" what the movement is doing.

 

 

Edited by AndyHull
Link to comment
Share on other sites


be160007cb9871b61d29aac50b88e1da.jpg&key=e5e5857de28fe014af39089a6b5f087bbb196c52aba1266864772f660cde6494 here’s the watch mate, but I’m not sure what the movement is! I’m at work! I’ll pop the back off later and take a look at the moment mate! I’ll let you know!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi the watch movement is a ISA 307


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, Vacherin said:

Maybe time the second hand, is it spot on 60 secs per rotation? Perhaps check it's position exactly on the minute after an hour or two.

This is good advice, and a simple test to confirm if the train is stopping rather than an issue with the motion works and the friction coupling for hand setting. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looses 20 min/ 12hrs ,  Dose so on bench only? Or on wrist ? Both?

What dose timing the seconds hand show or prove? If it looses 20 min per 12 hrs, the seconds hand will show loss of 100 secomd per hrs. So how would help diagnostic.:blink:. Or have I misundertood your meaning?

And if the seconds hand is the suspect, just remove it and observe.

:wacko::o:unsure: which one is who.

Edited by Nucejoe
20min/ 12hrs, observed for one day only? Loose hand then 20 min may alter.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

Looses 20 min/ 12hrs ,  Dose so on bench only? Or on wrist ? Both?

What dose timing the seconds hand show or prove? If it looses 20 min per 12 hrs, the seconds hand will show loss of 100 secomd per hrs. So how would help diagnostic.:blink:. Or have I misundertood your meaning?

And if the seconds hand is the suspect, just remove it and observe.

:wacko::o:unsure: which one is who.

If you time the thing on a time grapher, then you may see a pattern over time, so it may form a straight line with a jump at regular or irregular intervals, or the time grapher may show that it runs at a constant, but slow rate, or the rate may vary in a sinusiodal manner.

The graph can reveal which part of the system is the most likely source of your error.

Having said all that, the movement is not particularly expensive, so you might find that simply replacing it is the least time consuming and painful option.

Edited by AndyHull
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi   looked up the movements  cousins    obsolete   HS Walsh non  listed  AG Thomas in Bradford have listed ISA 307 s @ £7.75 might be worth a go and movement swap then play with the old one, probably the cheapest option. Thats what I would do as I have played about with quartz watches only to have wasted time and end up changing the movement .......   best of luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
    • Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.    
×
×
  • Create New...