Jump to content

Tool identification please


transporter

Recommended Posts

I've something very similar somewhere, came as part of a lot one at auction a few years back.

One could be used to measure the spring thickness while the other would be used to measure the spring height.

NAD

Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok thanks guys, I take it the one with the split down the middle is used to measure spring thickness by sliding said spring down the split until it stops, and the corresponding lowest line/mark is the thickness measurement to be read?

And the other tweezer like tool you just lay the spring in a slot and the one that it fits gives you the height?

i must say a vernier gauge does the same job, along with a micrometer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's the idea with the thickness and yes you're right that a micrometer would do the same.

I didn't notice that the other tool was tweezer like so it may be that it's a watch hand holding tool rather than as my first thought to measure spring height. See link below for one currenty on sale to allow you to compare and decide for yourself.

https://www.esslinger.com/bergeon-30004-brass-watch-hand-holding-tweezers/



Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, nad said:

That's the idea with the thickness and yes you're right that a micrometer would do the same.

I didn't notice that the other tool was tweezer like so it may be that it's a watch hand holding tool rather than as my first thought to measure spring height. See link below for one currenty on sale to allow you to compare and decide for yourself.

https://www.esslinger.com/bergeon-30004-brass-watch-hand-holding-tweezers/



Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
 

You are correct with that one. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The stress is the force (on the spring) x distance. The maximum stress is at the bottom, and decreases up the arm. That's why they always break at the bottom. I used a round file, then something like 2000 grit to finish. I gave the rest of the arm a quick polish - no need for a perfect finish. Just make sure there are no 'notches' left from cutting/filing. The notches act like the perforations in your toilet paper 🤣
    • It's probably a cardinal rule for watch repair to never get distracted while at the bench. Yesterday, after finishing a tricky mainspring winding/barrel insertion (I didn't have a winder and arbor that fit very well) I mentally shifted down a gear once that hurdle was passed. There were other things going on in the room as I put the barrel and cover into the barrel closer and pressed to get that satisfying snap. But when I took it out I realized I never placed the arbor.  When opening a barrel, we are relying on the arbor to transfer a concentrically-distributed force right where it is needed at the internal center of the lid. However, when that isn't present it's difficult to apply pressure or get leverage considering the recessed position of the lid, the small holes in the barrel and the presence of the mainspring coils. It was a beat-up practice movement so I didn't take a lot of time to think it over and I pushed it out using a short right-angle dental probe placed in from the bottom, but that did leave a bit of a scratch and crease in the thin lid. I had also thought about pulling it using a course-threaded screw with a minor thread diameter smaller than the lid hole and a major diameter larger, but that may have done some damage as well.  Thinking about how this might have been handled had it been a more valuable movement, is there a method using watchmaking or other tools that should extract the lid with the least damage? 
    • 🤔 what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ? Making a small groove so the lubrication doesn't spread across the component but what if when lubing a little overspills and sits on the epilame .
    • Why just the bottom mike ? Is it worth polishing the whole arm ?
    • The one thing I took time over was to round and polish the curves at the bottom of the jumper arm. The slightest mark (left over from cutting of filing) acts as a stress raiser, just where you don't need it. 
×
×
  • Create New...