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By rduckwor
Most of my learning efforts are on old, vintage movements; some in great shape, some not so much. I often find a screw or two that are stuck tight. Not rusted, just "aged-in-place" I try typically to put a drop of 9010 on the back side of the screw hole and let them sit and soak. Sometimes this works well. I gently heat them by moving my work light close to the movement and allow them to cool which may help move lubricant into the threads.
When this doesn't work, I'm stuck (no pun intended). Have you a method that also help loosen these old screws up? If so, please share it.
Thanks,
RMD
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By east3rn
Hello dear watch repairers.
I am working on a Bifora 910 manual wind movement.
The movement was cleaned and oiled yesterday and I have been testing the performance.
I noticed that when the watch is fully wound, the amplitude reaches somewhere above 300 and rate gets super high.
However after about 5 minutes, both amplitude and rate plunge to a very low state.
I thought mainspring was the reason so I took the barrel out, cleaned the mainspring and applied 8200 oil again only to get the similar result.
What do you think is the problem and what can be done??
I am always thankful for your help.
this is when fully wound
After 5 minutes
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By martintheone
My great Aunt died a couple years back. She had had been married to a man that owned a jewelry store back in the early 80's. In her estate was a number of great treasures and even literal gems. After the estate sale not much was left, but I did end up with what Ive deduced to be a Vintage Elma watch parts cleaner. And that is about as much as I have been able to figure out. None of the searches I've performed on the internet have returned with the exact model that I have. Not even an image... Similar , yes. The same . no. ..
I don't have a clue as to how to operate any watch parts cleaner, much less one with minimal text (german) to clue one in on function of switches and dials. So, I can't verify it is in working order. I did notice that the plug had a short in it so I replaced that, Plugged it in and a light above the switch lights up after being flipped, but again end of my road of investigation... So basically, I would really appreciate any information at all about this machine
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By east3rn
Hello dear watch repairers.
I am disassembling a vintage citizen caliber 0200.
It is a manual wind caliber with 21 jewels.
I usually do not have much problem disassembling simple movement like this.
However, the rachet wheel screw is very stiff and won't move at all.
I tried to unscrew it anti-clockwise with nicely fitting screwdriver but it is stuck.
Actually I have an bad experience with a citizen movement like this before.
It was cal.1801, very similar to 0200 and only difference was the date function.
I had same issue with the rachet wheel screw and I ended up breaking the screw. The head part of the screw came apart.
Is this a typical issue with citizen calibers?? or am I doing it wrong??
Please help me out!
caliber 0200.
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By east3rn
Hello dear watchmakers.
Last week, I was lucky enough to get my self a beautiful vintage Seiko chronograph watch with 7015 movement.
The overall condition looked great so I did not expect any problem with the watch.
However, over the last few days, I noticed that this watch stops around 1~2am when the day disk moves to the next day.
At first, I thought there was no residual power in the mainspring but the watch won't start after being shaken for some time.
It runs well and keeps good timing after I move the day disk manually by adjusting hands by crown till the next night around 1 am.
Could you please give me any ideas on this issue?? I really love this watch and want to make this watch perfectly functional. Thank you.
I put some photo of the watch and what timegrapher tells
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Caliber is generally engraved next to the ballance wheel. -
You said it gains about a minute every 24 hours, I see the beat adjustment lever (the one that is bent downward over the back plate) is pushed to one side, this lever will advance or retract the beat therefore speeding the clock up or slowing it down. Also check to see if the balance spring is free in the slot of this lever if not it may be putting too much tension on the spring. Just so you know, the closer the slot end of the lever is to the end of the spring (where the taper pin holds it) the slower the clock will run. -
It's very difficult to provide help without pictures. From the information you've provided, I can tell you that Omega pocket watch with movement number 5,694,216 would have been made between 1916 and 1923. The 15 jewels and 2 adjustments would align with these dates as well. I do not know what "Fortune" or the other number mean. Here is a picture of a watch made in the same time period...does your movement look like this? -
Hi Andy, The link introduces/defines Thermodynamic which is the study of heat energy conversion to work and vice versa. It is about transformation of energy. One form of energy (heat) transforming into another form ( work) and not concerned with transfer of heat, from hot to cold. Understanding the nature of heat and the mechanism heat transfers from hot source to cold, is a key len33 is prepared to use. His question shows him ready to absorb the concept. Regards joe
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By SeikoWatch · Posted
I hope not 'cause my Seikos have no retard or advance . my avatar is one i have since about 7 years now and no problem and i have never touched it inside ( sorry for my bad english )
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Hello dear watchmakers.
I am about to work on a Civis vintage watch from Germany.
The case of the watch looks like a typical watch case with a snap-off back.
However, the crown and stem won't come out of the case and what seems like an inner casing is actually part of the case.
Frustrated, I turned the watch over to find any opening on the bezel but it is also a part of the case.
How could I get the movement out of the case?? Any advice would be a great help.
Thank you.
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