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By rduckwor
Most of my learning efforts are on old, vintage movements; some in great shape, some not so much. I often find a screw or two that are stuck tight. Not rusted, just "aged-in-place" I try typically to put a drop of 9010 on the back side of the screw hole and let them sit and soak. Sometimes this works well. I gently heat them by moving my work light close to the movement and allow them to cool which may help move lubricant into the threads.
When this doesn't work, I'm stuck (no pun intended). Have you a method that also help loosen these old screws up? If so, please share it.
Thanks,
RMD
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By east3rn
Hello dear watch repairers.
I am working on a Bifora 910 manual wind movement.
The movement was cleaned and oiled yesterday and I have been testing the performance.
I noticed that when the watch is fully wound, the amplitude reaches somewhere above 300 and rate gets super high.
However after about 5 minutes, both amplitude and rate plunge to a very low state.
I thought mainspring was the reason so I took the barrel out, cleaned the mainspring and applied 8200 oil again only to get the similar result.
What do you think is the problem and what can be done??
I am always thankful for your help.
this is when fully wound
After 5 minutes
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By martintheone
My great Aunt died a couple years back. She had had been married to a man that owned a jewelry store back in the early 80's. In her estate was a number of great treasures and even literal gems. After the estate sale not much was left, but I did end up with what Ive deduced to be a Vintage Elma watch parts cleaner. And that is about as much as I have been able to figure out. None of the searches I've performed on the internet have returned with the exact model that I have. Not even an image... Similar , yes. The same . no. ..
I don't have a clue as to how to operate any watch parts cleaner, much less one with minimal text (german) to clue one in on function of switches and dials. So, I can't verify it is in working order. I did notice that the plug had a short in it so I replaced that, Plugged it in and a light above the switch lights up after being flipped, but again end of my road of investigation... So basically, I would really appreciate any information at all about this machine
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By east3rn
Hello dear watch repairers.
I am disassembling a vintage citizen caliber 0200.
It is a manual wind caliber with 21 jewels.
I usually do not have much problem disassembling simple movement like this.
However, the rachet wheel screw is very stiff and won't move at all.
I tried to unscrew it anti-clockwise with nicely fitting screwdriver but it is stuck.
Actually I have an bad experience with a citizen movement like this before.
It was cal.1801, very similar to 0200 and only difference was the date function.
I had same issue with the rachet wheel screw and I ended up breaking the screw. The head part of the screw came apart.
Is this a typical issue with citizen calibers?? or am I doing it wrong??
Please help me out!
caliber 0200.
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By east3rn
Hello dear watchmakers.
Last week, I was lucky enough to get my self a beautiful vintage Seiko chronograph watch with 7015 movement.
The overall condition looked great so I did not expect any problem with the watch.
However, over the last few days, I noticed that this watch stops around 1~2am when the day disk moves to the next day.
At first, I thought there was no residual power in the mainspring but the watch won't start after being shaken for some time.
It runs well and keeps good timing after I move the day disk manually by adjusting hands by crown till the next night around 1 am.
Could you please give me any ideas on this issue?? I really love this watch and want to make this watch perfectly functional. Thank you.
I put some photo of the watch and what timegrapher tells
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Hi All I'm a beginner. I've finally competed my Seiko 6119A in a Seiko 5. I now notice that the second hand tube is quite long. It's not sliding down the shaft with moderate pressure. How had should I push? Is there a trick to this? Thank you -
Hello guys, I have some problem with my seiko 7015 speedtimer that i bought 2 days ago.. This seiko runs smoothly when chronograph off And when the chronograph is active,the watch runs for awhile and then stop.. Whats wrong with it and maybe you guys can help me with some solution please!! thanks -
Hi Len thank you for the detailed reply. I tried a 329 today and unfortunately did not work. As you explained before it looks like the rotor is ocillating back and forth (the second hand moves forward and backwards). Its heartbreaking to see as i was hoping to fix it and give back to my grandfather. is there anyway i can source the part or an alternative movement (does not have to be Omega) that will fit the dial and casing?Although not ideal as takes away from the integrity and beauty of the watch but would love to able to get it working one way or the other so my grandfather can wear it on the wrist again. any help would be much appreciated regards 57253616986__A7C2CEC7-1ACC-483F-933C-D73C742B77C7.MOV -
For what its worth, the watch would originally have looked more like this. -
A little bit of a fun watch for today's Watch of Today.
Another Swatch rescued from the junk pile. This one had a couple of obvious issues.
The leather band was filthy, heavily kinked, and stiff as a board. So much so that had to be scrubbed with detergent, dried, and some leather restoration work carried out. The watch itself however, as well as the usual heavily scratched crystal had an electro-machanical issue. When I popped in a brand new battery, the second hand would move for a bit, then falter. This turned out to be a combination of slight corrosion on the spring contact for the battery, and the fact that someone had previously run the watch with a tiny button cell, wedged in place with some scrunched up paper, which had bent the sprung battery contact. A little very careful re-bending and off it went like a champ. This illustrates the point nicely, that even a little extra resistance in the battery contacts can be enough to stop a quartz movement, or make it behave erratically. The band took a little more effort. Once dried, following its bath, it became obvious that the original uniform kid leather look was long gone, so I went for a more vintage finish, with a little blending of the very worn patches using the leather dye in some dark tan shoe polish, combined with some lighter "Clarks Shoes" branded leather restoration cream. I only needed a hint of the dark tan, since I didn't want to end up with a brown shoes effect, simply to shine up the worn patches, and blend them with the existing colour.
Several thin coats of leather cream mixed with a little dark tan, and much buffing later and the strap is back to its original soft calfskin feel, rather than dry as a stick. All of the holes are the same size again. The band forms a gentle curve, rather than being corrugated, and the stitching is clean. The band looks ten times better than when it arrived. This is yet another member of the "404 Club", since it was effectively free with a bunch of other junk, I picked up which was purchased because it included a mechanical watch that I have yet to restore, all for under the magic £4.04
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Hello dear watchmakers.
I am about to work on a Civis vintage watch from Germany.
The case of the watch looks like a typical watch case with a snap-off back.
However, the crown and stem won't come out of the case and what seems like an inner casing is actually part of the case.
Frustrated, I turned the watch over to find any opening on the bezel but it is also a part of the case.
How could I get the movement out of the case?? Any advice would be a great help.
Thank you.
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